I think I was headed to Utah from Denver after I finally had a prolonged break form work and Matt, who was living in Eagle for the winter agreed to meet me there for a day of ice climbing in the Redstone area south of Glenwood Springs. We climbed Avocado Gully which is a WI3+ route going at about 2.5 pitches. We parked about 13 miles south of Carbondale on the road to McLure Pass. The approach was only 5 minutes or so off the west side of the highway. We both soloed up the first pitch which was a real easy snow/neve slope and emerged on a large ledge with the crux pitch just above. I led up the nice ice flow which was thick and easy at first, but halfway up, it steepened to a near vertical, thin ice flow with only one spot for a screw, and a stubby no less!
Had I thought to wrap a sling around one of the icicles like the guy behind us did, it would have been less scary but after thinking through the final move, I managed to get my spikes to bite on a thin spot of ice and pull up onto much easier snow above. 25 more feet up the gully brought me to the bolt and chain anchor where I belayed Matt up. He then took off up the wide, and fat third pitch which was only 30 feet or so high. Two single rope rappels, and a third to safely descend the easy "approach" pitch brought us back to safe ground.
After a 30 minute break, we were tipped off by a local to go to The Drool, which was on private property but the owners didn't mind. We parked just outside the town of Redstone and made the 10 minute hike and got to the base of a spectacular free flowing ice fall dropping down an overhanging sandstone cave. The ice was about 90 feet tall and purely vertical. I tapped the ice a few times and realized it was in perfect condition. So I told Matt I'd give it a try. Little did I know there would be a short overhanging section halfway up I couldn't see from the base.
I started up nicely, placing bomber screws in the ice and utilizing some chopped footholds. Then I got to the overhanging spot, was able to put a screw in but stood in the same spot too long and had to hang on my tools. Since I had never done that before, I didn't want to and stayed firm in my stance until my hands could no longer grip the tools. I had to let go hoping they would hold and amazingly they did and I didn't fall on the screw!
After resting for a few minutes, I placed another screw and pounded out the rest of it. I set up the anchor at the top and Matt lowered me. He then toproped it then we walked around to the top to clean it. I had never led a WI4 route prior to this and this apparently goes at WI5! I was quite happy with the effort but realized I needed to take it a little slower. Later that afternoon we went back to Eagle and I crashed with Matt and Noah at their apartment they had rented for the winter. Noah then invited me to join him and Glen for a climb of Hidden Falls in Glenwood Canyon. See that report here.
Had I thought to wrap a sling around one of the icicles like the guy behind us did, it would have been less scary but after thinking through the final move, I managed to get my spikes to bite on a thin spot of ice and pull up onto much easier snow above. 25 more feet up the gully brought me to the bolt and chain anchor where I belayed Matt up. He then took off up the wide, and fat third pitch which was only 30 feet or so high. Two single rope rappels, and a third to safely descend the easy "approach" pitch brought us back to safe ground.
After a 30 minute break, we were tipped off by a local to go to The Drool, which was on private property but the owners didn't mind. We parked just outside the town of Redstone and made the 10 minute hike and got to the base of a spectacular free flowing ice fall dropping down an overhanging sandstone cave. The ice was about 90 feet tall and purely vertical. I tapped the ice a few times and realized it was in perfect condition. So I told Matt I'd give it a try. Little did I know there would be a short overhanging section halfway up I couldn't see from the base.
I started up nicely, placing bomber screws in the ice and utilizing some chopped footholds. Then I got to the overhanging spot, was able to put a screw in but stood in the same spot too long and had to hang on my tools. Since I had never done that before, I didn't want to and stayed firm in my stance until my hands could no longer grip the tools. I had to let go hoping they would hold and amazingly they did and I didn't fall on the screw!
After resting for a few minutes, I placed another screw and pounded out the rest of it. I set up the anchor at the top and Matt lowered me. He then toproped it then we walked around to the top to clean it. I had never led a WI4 route prior to this and this apparently goes at WI5! I was quite happy with the effort but realized I needed to take it a little slower. Later that afternoon we went back to Eagle and I crashed with Matt and Noah at their apartment they had rented for the winter. Noah then invited me to join him and Glen for a climb of Hidden Falls in Glenwood Canyon. See that report here.
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Me on the second pitch of Avocado Gully
Myself leading up The Drool
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