LEMKE CLIMBS
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    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Foss Lakes Hike
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Shelf Road
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Montana Absarokas & Gallatin Range >
      • Black Mountain
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Sacajawea Peak
      • Arrow Peak
      • Koch Peak
      • Saddle Peak
      • Baldy Mountain
      • Sphinx Mountain
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
      • Dry Fork Slots, Coyote Gulch
      • Little Death Hollow/Wolverine Canyons
      • Egypt 3 Slot
      • Egypt 1 Canyon
    • Zion/Bryce >
      • Ataxia Tower Ashtar Command 5.9
      • Mount Kinesava Cowboy Ridge
      • Birch Hollow
      • Aires Butte
      • West Temple
      • Mystery Canyon
      • Crazy Streak
    • Cedar Mesa Region/Valley of the Gods >
      • Eagle Plume Tower Eagle Feather 5.10b
  • California
    • High Sierras, Southern CA Ranges >
      • Telescope Peak, Manly Beacon
      • Tahquitz Rock Whodunit 5.9
      • Tahquitz Rock Long Route 5.9
      • Palisade Traverse
      • White Mountain
    • Yosemite National Park, Central CA
    • Northern CA Cascades >
      • Lava Beds National Monument
      • Mount Shasta
  • Oregon
    • Oregon Volcanoes >
      • Three Fingered Jack
      • Mount Scott
    • Blue Mountains >
      • Twin Peaks
    • Trout Creek Rock Climbing
  • Alaska
    • Eagle Peak and Mount Ewe
    • Jatt Peak and Portage Pass
    • Rainbow Peak
    • Mount Brooks Attempt
    • Arrigetch Peaks Trek
    • Ab Mountain Hike
    • South Suicide Peak
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge Attempt
    • Cantata Peak Attempt
    • East Twin Peak
    • Mount Alice
    • Crow Pass and Hope Point Hikes
    • Indianhouse Mountain Attempt
    • Lynx Peak
    • Harding Icefield Hike
    • Hatcher Pass and Grapefruit Rocks Climbing
    • Mount Sanford
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge
  • Nevada
    • Ginger Cracks 5.8
    • Mescalito Dark Shadows 5.8
    • Birdland and Olive Oil
    • Frogland 5.8
    • Johnny Vegas 5.8
    • Schaeffer's Delight & Triassic Sands
    • Solar Slab - 5.6
  • British Columbia
    • Mount Matier
    • Taiya Peak
    • Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge
    • Mount Sabine Easy Honey 5.10b
    • Mount Sir Donald NW Ridge Attempt
    • Black Tusk
    • Squamish Ticks
    • Slesse Mountain NE Buttress
    • Warden Peak
    • Triple Peak
  • Alberta
    • Mist Ridge Hike
    • Mount Temple Attempt
    • East Wendell Peak
    • Loder Peak
    • Tower Mountain Attempt
    • The Rimwall
    • Mount Yamnuska Directissima 5.9
    • Mount Lawrence Grassi
    • Mount Lorette
    • Roche A Perdrix
    • Mount Edith Cavell East Ridge 5.3
    • Mount Louis Kain Route
    • Eiffel Peak
    • Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing
  • Other States
    • Arizona >
      • Grand Canyon Bright Angel Trail
      • Beanfest at Cochise Stronghold
      • Baboquivari Peak
      • Humphreys Peak
    • New Mexico >
      • Philmont Trek August 2008
    • Yukon >
      • Canyon Peak
  • International
    • Mexico & Central America >
      • Mexico - Pico de Orizaba, Izta
      • Guatemala Volcanoes
    • South America >
      • An Introduction to Patagonia
      • Cordillera Blanca - Tocllaraju and Urus
      • Nahuel Huapi National Park & The Frey
      • Exploring Pucon and Lanin Volcano
      • Cordillera Blanca - Ishinca Peak and Artesonraju
      • Cordillera Blanca - Quitaraju & Alpamayo
      • Exploring Southern Peru
      • Cerro Helio Azul & Tronador Attempt
      • Aguja Guillaumet Amy Couloir
      • Cerro Puntado & Palo
      • Cerro Colorado
      • Cerro Puno & Agudo
      • Cerro Trinidad Attempt
      • Volcan Quetrupillan
      • Cerro Placas
      • Nevado de Acay
      • Pequeno Alpamayo
      • Huayna Potosi
      • Illimani
      • Chiaro de Luna
      • Cerro Barros Arana
    • Oceania >
      • Exploring New Zealand's South Island
      • Puncak Jaya
      • Mount McPherson and Talbot
      • Single Cone
      • Mount Cook
      • Mount Aspiring
      • Manakau
    • Central Asia >
      • Kyrgyzstan 2021
  • Sorted by Year
    • 2008 Trip Reports
    • 2009 Trip Reports
    • 2010 Trip Reports
    • 2011 Trip Reports
    • 2012 Trip Reports
    • 2013 Trip Reports
    • 2014 Trip Reports
    • 2015 Trip Reports
    • 2016 Trip Reports
    • 2017 Trip Reports
    • 2018 Trip Reports
    • 2019 Trip Reports
    • 2020 Trip Reports
    • 2021 Trip Reports
    • 2022 Trip Reports
  • Vanlife
    • Conversion Journal >
      • Floor Installation
      • Folding Bed
      • Coffee Table
      • Thinsulate Installation
      • The Couch
      • The Wardrobe
      • Bookshelf
      • Water System
      • Electrical System
      • The Pantry
      • Refrigerator
      • Tire Upgrade
      • Heating System
      • Composting Toilet
  • About
    • Whats New
    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Foss Lakes Hike
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Shelf Road
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Montana Absarokas & Gallatin Range >
      • Black Mountain
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Sacajawea Peak
      • Arrow Peak
      • Koch Peak
      • Saddle Peak
      • Baldy Mountain
      • Sphinx Mountain
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
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LEMKE CLIMBS

chiaro de luna

Cerro Colorado - Fingers of Fate 5.10b & la cumbre
Aguja Saint Exupery - Chiaro de luna route 5.10d
Mojon Rojo - Class 5.4

january 2020

After my incredibly successful trip to New Zealand where I climbed Mount Cook among others, I travelled directly to Santiago Chile from Auckland where I met Matt there at the airport. For the next couple months we travelled around Patagonia, in what was his first trip to the area. We spent most of our time in El Chalten, however we enjoyed a week in Villa Cerro Castillo, and even made an attempt climbing the Castillo after doing some volunteer work for the trail crews to avoid the newly instated and expensive access fee to enter the Cerro Castillo park (which did not exist two years prior when Elaine and Itai climbed Cerro Palo and Puntado). We didn't make the summit due to icier than expected conditions at the 5.7 summit area. We stayed at the Camping Senderos Patagonia on the south end of town where many of the workers staying for the summer were doing various tasks to improve the park. One particular person named Mathias was really interested to hear about my previous trip up to Climb Cerro Palo, since he wasn't familiar about the route we had done. He also gave us some awesome beta for future attempts on Cerro Castillo. We did some sport climbing with the guys at one of the short walls right in town and they showed us what reallt good meat is! All around fun times.

We then moved a bit further south to Chile Chico where upon arroval after taking the ferry across Lago General Carerra, we walked to Campomento Nandu hostel where Juan and Kathy remembered me from a couple years prior. They were happy to host us again and Juan gave us a ride to the trailhead for Cerro Colorado. Matt and I had the place to ourselves for a few days which we did a few routes on the wall, the best of which was Fingers of Fate which went at 5.10b. Most of the best routes are very hard 5.11 and up some with less than desirable protection. On Christmas day it was incredibly windy as we hiked up to the base of the wall, so windy infact we could barely even walk so we called our folks on my phone which amazngly had service out there! Later that afternoon it didn't get any better but we did manage to find one short sheltered route to climb, and I scrambled around the cliffs on their east side to summit the formation via a class 3 route. The last day it was also windy but not as bad. We had to hitchhike back to town after hiking back to the gravel Chile Chico airport road (X-753). After waiting a couple hours we just decided to start walking north back towards the highway, and finally after a couple miles someone picked us up. We then noticed a stretch of good weather coming to Chalten so we got bus tickets and went back south.

Upon arriving to Chalten, Matthew was very excited to be seeing Fitz for the first time. It was as usual cloudy and windy when we arrived, and we pretty quickly befriended some other climbers and found a hostel to stay at. We more or less stayed in Chelten for 3 weeks or so before I left for what would have been a 10 day trip to northern Chile to meet up with Steven Song for some high elevation peaks, but just after I arrived in Copiapo, I had a bunch of things stolen and wasn't able to join him and his group for Ojos del Salado. Unfortunately that also included my camera with all the photos since I arrived in Chile so I only have a few photos from the whole trip displayed below, plus the ones Matthew got on his SLR.

​During our stay in Chalten, I was only able to hit the first good weather window we had at New Years a few days after we arrived, and Matt and I decided on climbing Chiaro de Luna; a beautiful classic on the west side of Ste Exupery. We joined John and his friends for the approach hike to Niponino which took most of the day after leaving town around 10am. Weather was nice in town with a warm sunshine, and even reasonable at Laguna Torre (which was of course flooded with tourists). As soon as we started hiking around the lakeshore though we didn't see much of anyone else. We continued around the north side of Laguna Torre and beyond to the Torre Glacier, and this traverse is very tedious with a high rockfall danger from the huge moraine above. Rocks are all loose and unstable which with big packs on is slow going. Eventually though we were able to cut onto the ice above the terminus and utilize the rocky covered glacier to make a beeline towards Niponino camp, a mildly sheltered spot at the junction of where the Torre glacier meets coming down from the north, and its western form comes down from the south side of Cerro Torre. It was shortly before reaching Niponino we caught up with Melissa and her climbing partner, who were also going for Chiaro de Luna. After arriving to camp we set up the tent and figured we would make an attempt on Aguja De I's the next day since we would need a couple days of dry weather to melt off the ice that had formed on Chiaro de Luna.
Photos in the section just below all taken by my climbing partner Matthew
Picture
Hitchhiking to Villa Cerro Castillo
Picture
Camp just below Cerro Colorado
Picture
Hiking on the Torre Glacier with Fitz above and right
Matthew and I made the approach up the diagonal ramp to the base of the west side routes on Exupery and De I's, and reached the low notch between the two towers after climbing 40-45 degree snow up the gully. The imposing south face of Exupery demanded respect from this notch, and looking down the east side the gully was dry and didn't seem to offer any real passage down the other side. We turned south though and traversed over around a small gendarme to the base of a small steep slab. Matthew led up this 30 foot pitch and got the awesome phot of me following it with Cerro Pallone towering across the Torre Glacier valley shown to the right. We emerged onto a flat section of the tower and walked over the the base of the final tower where the 3 pitch standard climb on the peak begins. The normal route climbs the inset chimney just west of the actual spine of the range, however the comparable in difficulty variation to the east looked drier. Since the guibook didn't give a grade for the variation we figured we would just go for the normal route even though it looked very snowy and icy. After I led an easy first pitch, Matthew started up the second, and after fighting ice for over an hour decides it isn't in the cards and bails off a nut. Even though we didn't make the top, it was an incredible place to be, with both Fitz and Cerro Torre and all the surrounding world renound peaks all in view for a rare clear day.
Picture
Climbing Cerro Castillo amidst questionable weather
Picture
Hiking to Niponino with Cerro Torre behind
Picture
Climbing on Aguja de I's with Cerro Pallone behind

After returning to camp, we discussed for quite awhile how we wanted to go about climbing Chiaro de Luna. With the two crux pitches at the bottom of the route, on the west side they would be shaded and cold in the morning, something neither of us wated to deal with. However getting a later start would mean we couldn't climb the route in a single day and I did not want to be climbing at night. So we finally settled on bringing just our sleeping bags and minimal clothing to spend the night on a ledge that we were not certain we would find somewhere on the route, then finishing it the second day. That proved to be a good strategy for a handful of reasons, one of which being that I saw without a doubt the best sunrise in my life from our bivy when the glow of red and pink illuminated the Torre group across the valley from us. It was a sight I'll never forget.

The climb began by climbing up a soloing up a concave steepening basalt dike that went from 3rd to 4th to low 5th class. When it got vertical we roped up and Matthew took off leading up the first pitch, which after nearly a full rope led him to a nice ledge at the base of the crux pitches. We could see and hear Melissa and her climbing partner up just above the crux pitches and figured we may also be fighting for a bivy spot. The following two pitches were some of the best climbing I have ever done, and involved a sustained finger crack and some interesting moves. The rock was so featured and grippy however that feet stuck like glue alost everywhere, so I speculated the grade never actually reached into the 5.11 threshhold. I managed to follow them quickly and cleanly despite carrying a 20 pound pack as well which I know I couldn't have done if they were true 5.11 pitches. Easier 4th and 5th pitches (Class 5.9 and 5.8) took us up a long left facing corner and then around a bulge to a nice and exposed ledge with a lot of air below. Matthew then led our final pitch of the afternoon up a tricky 5.10a where routefinding and protection proved challenging, but just above that 6th pitch was a wide and perfectly flat ledge more than suitable for staying the night. I cleared out some snow and doctored up the spot as best as possible, however since neither of us had sleeping pads due to the dampness we realized it was probably going to be cold! To our surprise we did not see the other two, and figured they may have bivied on a higher ledge.

I used the pack we had and my thin nylon coat for a little separation between my sleeping bag and the ground, and while I managed to stay warm enough, I didn't really sleep much and really enjoyed star gazing up at the southern sky. It was new years eve and I stayed up until midnight to ring in the new year before getting maybe 2 hours of light sleep. Luckily, light came early with twilight starting around 4am. I watched for the next couple hours as the sun slowly rose and with jaw dropping beauty on New Yars morning. Matthew seemed to have been a bit colder than I overnight and wasn't wanting to leave the sleeping bag, but I took a ton of photos on my Sony camera (thankfully Matthew decided to extract a few when we got back to Chalten afterwards for his Instagram, before it was stolen so we were able to have some photos of the climb). By about 6:30am or so we started climbing again, continuing up the route.
Photos in the section below taken by myself that Matthew extraced from my camera before it was stolen
Picture
Matthew admiring the route above from our approach
Picture
Not a bad evening belay view
Picture
Sunrise over the Torre group from our bivy
Despite the shady cold morning, we continued climbing and after a short 5.8 pitch we arrived at the long low angled section in the middle of the route. Snow lingered on the general area though which had become ice overnight requiring us to rock climb on dry rock around it, delaying us a bit. Then I led up an ice 5.8 pitch to the left of the snow that topped out on the big ledge/bulge we could see from Niponino way below. Here I actually found an Italian piton laying on the rock likely from the first ascent team. I decided I didn't really want it so Matthew gladly kept it.

The next 3 pitches the quality and style of the climb changed quite a bit. Tricky/balancy and somewhat less solid looking flakes and ledges were the name of the game, along with very hard routefinding and difficult protection. We weaved our way up this section of the route, having to also negociate a section covered in rime ice, but Matthew led each of these 3 pitches very well. The final 15 feet of the 3rd pitch on this face was the second crux of the route, and actually we both agreed it was the hardest moves on the whole thing. He ended up aiding for a stretch of it and I was not able to cleanly follow it, requiring a rest to get one of the cams out...perhaps we were also getting tired not having eaten much nor drinking much weater.
Picture
Matthew leading one of the crux pitches
Picture
Hoping those clouds go away!
Picture
Sunrise over Cerro Torre and the best sunrise I have ever seen
By the time we topped out on that section of the route it was now about 2pm. The next pitch was the well known leftward traverse, which gained no elevation but takes you to the base of the final chimney leading to the summit, as well as the normal rappel route. At 3pm we both reached this spot, with only 3 easier pitches of chimney climbing between us and the summit that would feature little routefinding issues. However I knew that we were in our last day of the weather window, and based on my experience in this area before, I had a feeling the winds would start whipping by 5pm, despite being dead calm at that point. So we made the tough decision to start rapelling and forgo the summit. This turned out to be a very good decision though because as my hunch was telling me, right at 5pm the winds came out of nowhere, picking up from a mere draft to well over 60 miles per hour! The final 2-3 rappels were tough with rope management, and we even got the rope stuck while inside a deeply inset 50 meter high wide chimney totally filled with ice; all of which was delaminating from the rock. The warm air had it all melting and we were quickly getting wet in there with nothing but our rock shoes on trying to fight the rope. I realized that I could pull the rope from the other end just barely, so I yanked the entire rope through the other direction requiring a huge amount of energy but we finally got it out after 30 minutes in that cold wet chimney. From there it was just two more raps until we reached the snow gully, which in the afternoon was soft allowing us to plunge step quickly back to Matthews cached pack and gear. We wasted no time starting the hike back down to Niponino, as I knew my tent was not going to survive too much longer in these winds, which were only getting worse.

Just as we reached the top of the moraine at the base of the diagonal ramp (Polacos Camp), I could see my orange tent still there on the rocky glacier, but I had not tied it down well enough for 60 mph winds and told Matthew I was going to run ahead to hopefully get to it before it gets ripped off and blows away with the rest of our gear. The Torre glacier is huge and probably over a mile wide so it took me another 20 minutes to reach the tent, getting there around 9:30pm and just in time to secure it better before it blew away. One of the cords snapped and another from a different corner was about to as well. We quickly threw everything inside to weight it down and I re-secured the corners to be able to last the night. No dinner was cooked since we would never get a stove to stay lit in this and we just went straight to sleep. less than 15 minutes after we turned in for the night, rain started and continued through the night. To our dismay at this point, we still had not seen Melissa or her partner, and we started to worry about them.

Morning came but it was still raining. We decided to give it until 10am to try and wait out the rain before we would be forced to start hiking back. 10am came, and it was still raining so we bit the bullet and started packing. Luckily though, by 10:30 it doed down quite a bit. We started walking down the glacier and after just 15 minutes or so, out of nowhere our two companions show up! They were hiding under a rock apparently since her tent had been destroyed at some point the previous night and they had to move to find natural shelter. They told us about their climb, which we were amazed to head they continued climbing into the night, and made the entire descent in the dark during the night we bivied! Her partner, who was native to Argentina had climbed the route previously and knew the way allowing them to avoid the routefinding issues we had, but they had a pretty miserable time.

We hiked out back to town together though and agreed we would all grab dinner, drnks and Domo Blanco in town that evening, which was what kept be moving. The ice cream in Chalten is legendary if you weren't aware! By the time we reached Laguna Torre the sun was out and warming up quite a bit. The final 10 kilometers of trail back to town was filled with people, none of which I was too keen on chatting with, but when one person offered me a fresh orange I was thrilled to have it. You can imagine the dinner and beers at Fresca Bar, followed by ice cream at Domo Blanco was magical. I had a kilogram of ice cream!

​Unfortunately the remainder of the trip we didn't succeed on anything else other than Mojon Rojo, the smaller red tower just south of Aguja de I's and commonly referred as the southernmost tower in the Fitz group. Hiking up the trail towards Laguna de los Tres, and branching off to the left just before the final switchbacks up we hiked to Laguna Sucia, which is a gorgeous blue lake in a deep down below the east side of the Fitz. Huge chunks of ice regulairly fall from the flacier abovedown the steep waterfall slabs down to the far end of the lake. Hiking around the south side of the lake a trail then takes off steeply leading up to the boulder camp where climbers can bivy in a large cave enough for 3-4 people. The continuing up onto the Rio Blanco Glacier it's a nice mellow walk to the base of the final scramble up Mojon Rojo. 500 feet of slightly snow covered class 3-4 scrambling led us to the final summit rock, where a 20 foot pitch of 5.4 climbing gets you to the top. We brought along a new friend we made in Chalten by this point from Australia who was thrilled to join for something more than just one of the tourist hikes. Each of us switched off tagging the summit, and I decided to explore a bit to the north to get a better view of the drop between Mojon Rojo and Aguja de I's when Matthew took the photo of me shown below, one of my favorites from the trip.
Picture
Enjoying the view with Fitz Roy behind me

After we returned to Chalten, and about 4-5 days later we jouned Scott, another Coloradoan and headed back up onto the Rio Blanca Glacier for another attempt on Aguja de I's but after realizing the route was wet and still icy, and seeing another party on the route bail, after hiking right to the base we decided to not continue, and just hiked back to Chalten. After a few more days waiting out weather, the rain and wind had no end in sight, so I decided to book a flight to northern Chile to hopefully meetup with some of my Canadian friends for Ojos del Saldo. When I arrived in Copiapo a couple days later as I was shopping for food at a grocery store my rental truck was broken into and a lot of my gear, including all my electronics and passport was stolen, so I was forced to bail returning to Chalten to meet back up with Matthew and fly back to Santiago and visit the US embassy for an emergency passport. I then had to change my flight back to the US since I was no longer able to climb any real objectives without most of my warm clothing, which is not replacable for me in South America. So I returned back to Denver in early February. To add insult to injury, there was a second 3 day weather window in Chalten a week after I returned to Denver, which Matthew was able to climb the Motocross traverse just before he headed back to the US as well. I was pretty jealous! In the end, while it was not as successful of a trip to Patagonia as the one I had two years earlier, it was still great and one I'll never forget, and I already started dreaming of my next trip down there as soon as I got back.
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