LEMKE CLIMBS
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    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Foss Lakes Hike
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Shelf Road
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Montana Absarokas & Gallatin Range >
      • Black Mountain
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Sacajawea Peak
      • Arrow Peak
      • Koch Peak
      • Saddle Peak
      • Baldy Mountain
      • Sphinx Mountain
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
      • Dry Fork Slots, Coyote Gulch
      • Little Death Hollow/Wolverine Canyons
      • Egypt 3 Slot
      • Egypt 1 Canyon
    • Zion/Bryce >
      • Ataxia Tower Ashtar Command 5.9
      • Mount Kinesava Cowboy Ridge
      • Birch Hollow
      • Aires Butte
      • West Temple
      • Mystery Canyon
      • Crazy Streak
    • Cedar Mesa Region/Valley of the Gods >
      • Eagle Plume Tower Eagle Feather 5.10b
  • California
    • High Sierras, Southern CA Ranges >
      • Telescope Peak, Manly Beacon
      • Tahquitz Rock Whodunit 5.9
      • Tahquitz Rock Long Route 5.9
      • Palisade Traverse
      • White Mountain
    • Yosemite National Park, Central CA
    • Northern CA Cascades >
      • Lava Beds National Monument
      • Mount Shasta
  • Oregon
    • Oregon Volcanoes >
      • Three Fingered Jack
      • Mount Scott
    • Blue Mountains >
      • Twin Peaks
    • Trout Creek Rock Climbing
  • Alaska
    • Eagle Peak and Mount Ewe
    • Jatt Peak and Portage Pass
    • Rainbow Peak
    • Mount Brooks Attempt
    • Arrigetch Peaks Trek
    • Ab Mountain Hike
    • South Suicide Peak
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge Attempt
    • Cantata Peak Attempt
    • East Twin Peak
    • Mount Alice
    • Crow Pass and Hope Point Hikes
    • Indianhouse Mountain Attempt
    • Lynx Peak
    • Harding Icefield Hike
    • Hatcher Pass and Grapefruit Rocks Climbing
    • Mount Sanford
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge
  • Nevada
    • Ginger Cracks 5.8
    • Mescalito Dark Shadows 5.8
    • Birdland and Olive Oil
    • Frogland 5.8
    • Johnny Vegas 5.8
    • Schaeffer's Delight & Triassic Sands
    • Solar Slab - 5.6
  • British Columbia
    • Mount Matier
    • Taiya Peak
    • Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge
    • Mount Sabine Easy Honey 5.10b
    • Mount Sir Donald NW Ridge Attempt
    • Black Tusk
    • Squamish Ticks
    • Slesse Mountain NE Buttress
    • Warden Peak
    • Triple Peak
  • Alberta
    • Mist Ridge Hike
    • Mount Temple Attempt
    • East Wendell Peak
    • Loder Peak
    • Tower Mountain Attempt
    • The Rimwall
    • Mount Yamnuska Directissima 5.9
    • Mount Lawrence Grassi
    • Mount Lorette
    • Roche A Perdrix
    • Mount Edith Cavell East Ridge 5.3
    • Mount Louis Kain Route
    • Eiffel Peak
    • Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing
  • Other States
    • Arizona >
      • Grand Canyon Bright Angel Trail
      • Beanfest at Cochise Stronghold
      • Baboquivari Peak
      • Humphreys Peak
    • New Mexico >
      • Philmont Trek August 2008
    • Yukon >
      • Canyon Peak
  • International
    • Mexico & Central America >
      • Mexico - Pico de Orizaba, Izta
      • Guatemala Volcanoes
    • South America >
      • An Introduction to Patagonia
      • Cordillera Blanca - Tocllaraju and Urus
      • Nahuel Huapi National Park & The Frey
      • Exploring Pucon and Lanin Volcano
      • Cordillera Blanca - Ishinca Peak and Artesonraju
      • Cordillera Blanca - Quitaraju & Alpamayo
      • Exploring Southern Peru
      • Cerro Helio Azul & Tronador Attempt
      • Aguja Guillaumet Amy Couloir
      • Cerro Puntado & Palo
      • Cerro Colorado
      • Cerro Puno & Agudo
      • Cerro Trinidad Attempt
      • Volcan Quetrupillan
      • Cerro Placas
      • Nevado de Acay
      • Pequeno Alpamayo
      • Huayna Potosi
      • Illimani
      • Chiaro de Luna
      • Cerro Barros Arana
    • Oceania >
      • Exploring New Zealand's South Island
      • Puncak Jaya
      • Mount McPherson and Talbot
      • Single Cone
      • Mount Cook
      • Mount Aspiring
      • Manakau
    • Central Asia >
      • Kyrgyzstan 2021
  • Sorted by Year
    • 2008 Trip Reports
    • 2009 Trip Reports
    • 2010 Trip Reports
    • 2011 Trip Reports
    • 2012 Trip Reports
    • 2013 Trip Reports
    • 2014 Trip Reports
    • 2015 Trip Reports
    • 2016 Trip Reports
    • 2017 Trip Reports
    • 2018 Trip Reports
    • 2019 Trip Reports
    • 2020 Trip Reports
    • 2021 Trip Reports
    • 2022 Trip Reports
  • Vanlife
    • Conversion Journal >
      • Floor Installation
      • Folding Bed
      • Coffee Table
      • Thinsulate Installation
      • The Couch
      • The Wardrobe
      • Bookshelf
      • Water System
      • Electrical System
      • The Pantry
      • Refrigerator
      • Tire Upgrade
      • Heating System
      • Composting Toilet
  • About
    • Whats New
    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Foss Lakes Hike
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Shelf Road
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Montana Absarokas & Gallatin Range >
      • Black Mountain
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Sacajawea Peak
      • Arrow Peak
      • Koch Peak
      • Saddle Peak
      • Baldy Mountain
      • Sphinx Mountain
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
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LEMKE CLIMBS

​Star & Courtney Peaks

Star Peak - 8690' - South slopes class 2 / Courtney peak - 8392' - SE Ridge Class 2 / GrAy Peak - 8074' / Battle Mountain - 7700'
July 2011

My Courtney Peak page on SP

The Trip Report

Who: Matt, Jaclyn and I 

Where: Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness east of Lake Chelan 

Distance: About 40 miles 

Time: 4 days 

Summits: Point 8202, Star Peak, Courtney Peak, Grey Peak, and Battle Mountain

Pre-Trip

The last couple months have been very exciting for me as I have been climbing all over Colorado since the end of may. I had spent lots of time in the San Juans around Silverton and into the Elks around Aspen. A TR about that time will come later this week but on July 3rd the southwest monsoons moved in and were going to be relentless. 

It was at this time that I decided to head north to get away from all the infamous Colorado thunderstorms that will be lasting through August. I needed a change of scenery anyway. 

I was lucky to have stumbled across Matt's shout out for people interested in joining in on a backpacking trip in the Chelan Sawtooths. After getting some conditions information I decided I missed my home state enough to come back early. I didn't have to be back in Renton until the 13th anyway so I had lots of time. 

The trip started by meeting Matt and Jaclyn in Twisp. I came in from Idaho on my way from Glacier National Park (TR to come later this week) while they came in from Portland. 

We met for dinner in Twisp and ate next to live music which was nice. Since we now had two cars we looked oover a good route and decided to make the trip a point to point trip....my favorite! 

I packed and we took my car to the Crater Lake trailhead just outside Twisp off of the Twisp River Road. We spent that first night at the Twisp River Inn. 

Day 1 - July 7th 2011


The next morning the fun began. After a quick stop we were on our way to the Eagle Lakes trailhead all the way up to 4800 feet. This was a pleasant surprise to start this high in elevation as my car at the Crater Lake trailhead was all the way down at 3000 feet. 

We were on our way about 10:00 am on the trail. It was already very warm and we noticed many great flowers out especially the lupines. It wasn't long until we were greeted with our first views of the Sawtooth Crest. Things were looking promising from our first views. 

Getting into the high country
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First views along the trail

As we slowly rose in elevation we saw a couple heading down from a one night trip. They had told us about lots of snow but they didn't look too prepared either. This would be one of only two groups of people we would see the whole trip. 

Getting into the high country
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Getting closer to the high country

As we gained elevation we passed through more meadows with many wildflowers just starting to come out. 

Horsehead Pass trail
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Lupine filled meadow

We were surprised to keep walking and passing by the 6000 foot elevation...then the 6500 foot mark and not see any snow on the trail. 

We saw our first patch just above 6500 feet and once we got to about 6900 feet it was a sudden change from ground to complete snow. We saw Lower Eagle Lake completely thawed below us and wanted to see Upper Eagle Lake. We were able to follow the trail up until the junction with the Upper Eagle Lake trail. The basin containing Upper Eagle Lake was still completely snowed in with an average of three feet of snow. 

Nonetheless we made it to the lake and had a peaceful lunch break. 

Upper Eagle Lake
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Frozen Upper Eagle Lake with Bigalo in the right center

After lunch we agreed to head over Horsehead pass and camp at Boiling Lake. We hoped there would be less snow there. 

As we pressed on up Horsehead clouds started to roll in but with my knowledge about weather they looked stable so we continued up the snowfield to the top of Horsehead Pass. 

Horsehead Pass
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Views across the valley from the trail up Horsehead Pass
Horsehead Pass
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Clouds rolling in

We arrived at the top and were greeted with great views and were relieved to see Boiling Lake about half thawed with dry spots around to pitch tents. We also noticed though a large group of people down there. 

We made our way down weaving through patches of snow to the lake and passed by the group of about 10 people. They were a high school NOLS group and had students from all over the country. Glad to see young ones interested in mountaineering. They were in a 4 week backpacking and snow travel course. They were following a similar path than us but they were planning on heading out to Lake Chelan over Purple Pass. 

That has to be the best type of school that exists! 

Boiling Lake...
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Cheops and Boiling Lake

Despite the group we found a nice secluded spot and pitched the tents. 

Views from our campsite were fantastic! 

Boiling Lake and Cheops
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Approaching Boiling Lake

So apparently it is called Boiling Lake because it will bubble up in the summertime due to microorganisms. Weird! 

Matt and I took a quick side trip up to Point 8202; the peak just above Horsehead Pass. From here we saw both Eagle Lakes, Bigalo, Boiling Lake (and camp), and all the peaks of the nearby Sawtooth Crest. 

We ascended the steep slopes and got to the summit with great lighting. 

Cheops Peak...
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Cheops from Point 8202
Point 8202
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Cheops and Boiling Lake
Cheops from Point 8202
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Cheops and Boiling Lake

And it was here I captured my favorite photo of the trip looking towards the Eagle Lakes from Point 8202 


Point 8202
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Upper and Lower Eagle Lake from Point 8202

We descended the snow free ridge back to Horsehead Pass and back down to Boiling Lake. We cooked nice dinners and watched the sunset over the Lake. Water was easy to come by this time of year. Cheops sat beautifully in the back of the lake during the sunset. 

Boiling Lake panorama
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Afternoon on Boiling Lake
Boiling Lake...
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Boiling Lake
Sunset...
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The sun slowly setting
Alpenglow on Cheops
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Last alpenglow on Cheops

Day 2 - July 8th 2011


That night it was below freezing and standing water froze. We woke about 6:30 and slowly got ready to move. That whole morning was cold and had decent cloud cover. By 8 we were on the move an on our way to Chipmonk Pass. 

Views on the trail
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Views on the trail to Chipmonk Pass

We had mostly a snow free trail to the top of Chipmonk Pass and took a break up there. 

Chipmonk Pass
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View from Chipmonk Pass

The day slowly warmed up but still had lots of clouds. We had great views of Star Peak though...one of our goals on the trip. 

The descent off Chipmonk pass was still snow covered and fairly hard so I glissaded down but Matt and Jaclyn were able to kick step down. I don't have hard soles in my boots so I couldn't kkick as well. We were able to find the trail in just enough places to follow it without using the GPS...unlike later that day. 

We saw many fresh bear tracks in the snow patches along the trail but it didn't scare us! 

We made our way along the trail crossing maybe a hundred small snow patches before getting to the raging creek that drains the Bernice Lake Valley. 

 

Star Peak
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Star Peak from the trail
Star Peak
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Star Peak from the trail
Star Peak
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Some clouds blocking our blue sky!

We had to take our shoes off to cross the creek but it wasn't too bad overall. We checked with a past trip report to locate the way trail to Bernice Lake which is where we ditched the packs for a side hike. 

Despite one good creek crossing that was barely doable by rock hopping, this had to be one of the best way trails I've ever been on as it was in great shape up to about 6900 feet until it was nearly completely covered in snow. At that point we went straight up to the lake at 7200 feet. It was still frozen but the day turned out great and it warmed up a lot. 

Lake Bernice trail
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Views from the Bernice Lake way trail
Lake Bernice
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Frozen Bernice Lake

We had our lunch here and relaxed for about an hour. We noted this place would be beautiful in the fall due to the abundance of larch trees...way more than there is in the Enchantments. 

We made our way back down to the packs and continued on the trail and passed by the wonderfully constructed shelter. This shelter was surrounded by small snow patches that we didn't think of much at the time but we would be haunted. 

Old Shelter
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Shelter along the trail

We decided to head up another 1000 feet from 5800 feet at the shelter to 6800 feet and camp at the trail junction with the unnamed pass just below Star Peak. After hitting snow at 6800 feet on our Bernice Lake side trip we thought this would be an easy couple miles...WRONG! This would be the hardest 1000 vertical of the trip as we hit continuous snow shortly after the shelter and lost the trail completely for the couple miles. 

We relied heavily on the GPS to keep us from weaving in circles too much and we had to continually find the path of least resistance through an average of 3-4 feet of snow. The only snow free area we passed here was a small portion of the trail that got above the trees. 

Meadow...
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Small meadow...a break from all the snow in the trees.

The forest in this area was thicker and the ground was shaded much more so the snow stuck around longer at lower elevations. This area probably won't melt out until the end of the month. Lots of little stream crossings too. 

After 3 hours of this we made it to the junction and was lucky enough to find a dry area for two tents at a tree well that had melted out. Snow completely surrounded the ground around us. Our feet were very wet and we only had an hour of sunlight left. 

I got in my tent and cooked dinner from the tent and went to bed around 8:30 pm. 

It was another cold night. 

Day 3 - July 9th 2011


Another cold morning meant another slow break of camp. It was interesting to be sleeping on a rare bare spot in the snow around us. That morning though a deer was taunting us and probably smelled our food.

A morning deer
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Deer around camp
A morning deer
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Morning deer

We were on the move again though around 8:30 and was on our way to the unnamed pass at about 7400 feet. We escaped the snow once we broke above the trees (thankfully) and got to the top of the pass on mostly bare trail after that. 

Matt and I then set off for Star Peak. This was a lovely climb up its Class 2 south ridge. 

Star Peak
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Views on the ascent of Star
Oval Peak
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Oval Peak from just below the summit
Oval Peak
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Oval peak from near the summit
Star Peak
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Star Peak summit panorama
North Cascade Peaks
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Heart of the North Cascades

We got to the top by around 10 am and had bluebird views of all the North Cascades, Mt. Baker, Glacier Peak, Canada and Mt. Rainier. 

We had a quick snack and was hesitant to leave but we had to get bback to the pass. The descent off this was was completely snow covered like Chipmonk Pass was but this one was a little steeper and I was able to pull out my axe and glissade down as my boots didn't have hard enough soles to kick down like Matt and Jaclyn were able to do. 

Fun though! 

We saw a beautiful choice campsite in a open meadow just below Star Lake surrounded by small creeks. What a step up from the night before! W

e set up camp and ate lunch. By 2 pm we set off up the Star Lake basin and to Fish Creek Pass. This basin was filled with snow and Star Lake still frozen but the top of Fish Creek Pass was snow free. 

Courtney Peak
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Courtney Peak from just above camp

We ascended the east ridge of Courtney and had perfect views of the north face of Star Peak...that cliff we just looked down hours earlier. 

Got to the top of Courtney around 4 pm and really relaxed up there. We saw the Oval Lakes basin for the first time and noted the vast expanse of larch trees. Great place in the fall! 

West and Middle Oval Lakes were still frozen but the east lake was about 40 percent thawed. 

Star Peak
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Star Peak from near Star Lake
Star Peak
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Star Peaks north face from the ridge on Courtney
Star Peak
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Star from Courtney
Oval Peak
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Star from Courtney
Oval and Star Peaks
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Courtney Peak summit panorama featuring Oval AND Star Peaks
Oval Peak
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Oval and east Oval Lake from Courtney
Star Peak
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Star Peak from near Fish Creek Pass
Oval Lakes Basin
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Oval Lakes Basin from Courtney

And here's a portrait of Matt and Jaclyn atop Courtney Peak with Star Peak in the background.

Atop Courtney Peak
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As much as I wanted to get Oval Peak I thought about my desire to return and do Oval Peak and explore the Oval Lakes Basin sometime in the fall in the future. There are so many larches down there and if I climbed Oval right then I wouldn't be able to return to the area. 

So I didn't traverse to Oval from Courtney and I'll return in the fall sometime. 

We went back down to camp and still had about three hours of daylight left since we didn't travel far with the packs that day. I cooked myself a large dinner! 

The campsite was very photogenic and I had fun shooting the views and creeks around the tents. 

View from Camp
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Views from camp...notice the tent
View from camp
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Sunset approaching
Small runoff streams
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One of many small streams
Small runoff streams
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Sitting on the rocks
Small runoff streams
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Small cascade

That evening was much warmer and we enjoyed another sunset before heading to bed. 


Day 4 - July 10th 2011


We woke early and started down the trail towards Tuckaway Lake. We got to the point where the trail switchbacked down about a hundred feet into the basin and after examining the basin we decided to bypass the long trail around the ridge extending above Tuckaway Lake and head straight up the basin and over the ridge to Eagle Pass. 

On the way we ditched the packs near the lake and ridge-ran to Grey Peak. What a beautiful ridge this was. We were also surprised to see Tuckaway Lake to be completely melted out despite being at the same elevation as the frozen Bernice Lake. 

We got to the top of Grey Peak mid-morning and saw by the register that we were the second group of the year to summit that obscure peak. 

Ridge was snow free but the basin, as always had lots of snow. 

Wildflowers on Grey Peak
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Flowers near the summit of Grey
Grey Peak
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Grey Peak summit panorama
Grey Peak
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Cresting the ridge on Grey Peak
Grey Peak
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Long 300 degree panorama from Grey Peak

We descended back into Horseshoe Basin and finished our climb up the the ridge connecting to Eagle Pass. We picked up the small boot path descending steeply on loose scree down to Eagle Pass where we had lunch. This descent was snow free but the slopes just below the ridge crests in this area were still decked in snow. 

Eagle Pass
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View down the boot path to Eagle Pass
Eagle Pass
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View down the boot path to Eagle Pass

The clouds were slowly rolling in and I guessed by late afternoon we may get rained on. 

From Eagle Pass we just had to go and summit Battle Mountain since it was right there. 

The ridge walk was up only about 400 feet but it had some horizontal distance to it. Took us about a half hour each way but the views were worth it despite the lower 7800 foot peak. 

Battle Mountain
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Battle Mountain view
Battle Mountain
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Oval Peak from Battle Mountain

We returned to Eagle Pass, picked up our packs and started our long descent to my car. I got one last glissade down the snow covered slopes below Eagle Pass and we then walked on easy snow for about a mile before picking up more bare ground and being able to follow the trail. 

We were very surprised to see continuous snow all the way down to 6000 feet and lower in this drainage but I guess it's not much different than the evening of our second day where we had lots of snow in a thicker forest. 

Once we got below 5800 feet on this trail it was mostly smooth sailing for another 5 miles to the car. There were two crossings of the raging Eagle Creek. The first was cross able on logs but the second had to be done without shoes. Trekking poles were very helpful. Actually now that I think of it I would have fallen down dozens of times if I didn't have them. 

Eagle Creek
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Eagle Creek ford

The trail down lower in elevation had many blowdowns that got very annoying but we made it to the car and was out of there! 

We drove back to our starting trailhead at Crater Lake and I dropped Matt and Jaclyn off and we parted. 

Looking Back

This trip for me came abut after a sudden change of plans. I originally planned on spending all my time until the 13th of July in Colorado but early monsoons chased me north. I'd like to thank Matt and Jacklyn for doing the research and planning the trip as well as inviting me. I usually do trip planning but it was nice to not have to for once. I also want to thank them for their generosity. 

I had no previous knowledge of the area and I honestly wasn't expecting much from the area before the trip. Boy am I glad I went here though as the area far surpassed my expectations and was truly spectacular. It is also high up in elevation for Washington state. We camped every night above 6500 feet and peaked out on Star Peak at roughly 8700 feet. These elevations on the west side for one thing don't exist beside the volcanoes and snow levels over there are still 4000 feet!! Larches in the area would far surpass the larch quality of the Enchantments in the fall and the peaks had very high quality views. 

All the snow we traveled on was very consolidated and we rarely post-holed. The bugs were also non-existent! What a fantastic trip despite some snow but in reality, the snow on this trip made things even more beautiful. 

I highly recommend the area for trips for the remainder of July especially for this year where thhe west side will never melt out. 

You can also find Matt's photos here:

More Chelan Sawtooth photos

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