LEMKE CLIMBS
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    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Foss Lakes Hike
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Shelf Road
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Montana Absarokas & Gallatin Range >
      • Black Mountain
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Sacajawea Peak
      • Arrow Peak
      • Koch Peak
      • Saddle Peak
      • Baldy Mountain
      • Sphinx Mountain
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
      • Dry Fork Slots, Coyote Gulch
      • Little Death Hollow/Wolverine Canyons
      • Egypt 3 Slot
      • Egypt 1 Canyon
    • Zion/Bryce >
      • Ataxia Tower Ashtar Command 5.9
      • Mount Kinesava Cowboy Ridge
      • Birch Hollow
      • Aires Butte
      • West Temple
      • Mystery Canyon
      • Crazy Streak
    • Cedar Mesa Region/Valley of the Gods >
      • Eagle Plume Tower Eagle Feather 5.10b
  • California
    • High Sierras, Southern CA Ranges >
      • Telescope Peak, Manly Beacon
      • Tahquitz Rock Whodunit 5.9
      • Tahquitz Rock Long Route 5.9
      • Palisade Traverse
      • White Mountain
    • Yosemite National Park, Central CA
    • Northern CA Cascades >
      • Lava Beds National Monument
      • Mount Shasta
  • Oregon
    • Oregon Volcanoes >
      • Three Fingered Jack
      • Mount Scott
    • Blue Mountains >
      • Twin Peaks
    • Trout Creek Rock Climbing
  • Alaska
    • Eagle Peak and Mount Ewe
    • Jatt Peak and Portage Pass
    • Rainbow Peak
    • Mount Brooks Attempt
    • Arrigetch Peaks Trek
    • Ab Mountain Hike
    • South Suicide Peak
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge Attempt
    • Cantata Peak Attempt
    • East Twin Peak
    • Mount Alice
    • Crow Pass and Hope Point Hikes
    • Indianhouse Mountain Attempt
    • Lynx Peak
    • Harding Icefield Hike
    • Hatcher Pass and Grapefruit Rocks Climbing
    • Mount Sanford
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge
  • Nevada
    • Ginger Cracks 5.8
    • Mescalito Dark Shadows 5.8
    • Birdland and Olive Oil
    • Frogland 5.8
    • Johnny Vegas 5.8
    • Schaeffer's Delight & Triassic Sands
    • Solar Slab - 5.6
  • British Columbia
    • Mount Matier
    • Taiya Peak
    • Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge
    • Mount Sabine Easy Honey 5.10b
    • Mount Sir Donald NW Ridge Attempt
    • Black Tusk
    • Squamish Ticks
    • Slesse Mountain NE Buttress
    • Warden Peak
    • Triple Peak
  • Alberta
    • Mist Ridge Hike
    • Mount Temple Attempt
    • East Wendell Peak
    • Loder Peak
    • Tower Mountain Attempt
    • The Rimwall
    • Mount Yamnuska Directissima 5.9
    • Mount Lawrence Grassi
    • Mount Lorette
    • Roche A Perdrix
    • Mount Edith Cavell East Ridge 5.3
    • Mount Louis Kain Route
    • Eiffel Peak
    • Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing
  • Other States
    • Arizona >
      • Grand Canyon Bright Angel Trail
      • Beanfest at Cochise Stronghold
      • Baboquivari Peak
      • Humphreys Peak
    • New Mexico >
      • Philmont Trek August 2008
    • Yukon >
      • Canyon Peak
  • International
    • Mexico & Central America >
      • Mexico - Pico de Orizaba, Izta
      • Guatemala Volcanoes
    • South America >
      • An Introduction to Patagonia
      • Cordillera Blanca - Tocllaraju and Urus
      • Nahuel Huapi National Park & The Frey
      • Exploring Pucon and Lanin Volcano
      • Cordillera Blanca - Ishinca Peak and Artesonraju
      • Cordillera Blanca - Quitaraju & Alpamayo
      • Exploring Southern Peru
      • Cerro Helio Azul & Tronador Attempt
      • Aguja Guillaumet Amy Couloir
      • Cerro Puntado & Palo
      • Cerro Colorado
      • Cerro Puno & Agudo
      • Cerro Trinidad Attempt
      • Volcan Quetrupillan
      • Cerro Placas
      • Nevado de Acay
      • Pequeno Alpamayo
      • Huayna Potosi
      • Illimani
      • Chiaro de Luna
      • Cerro Barros Arana
    • Oceania >
      • Exploring New Zealand's South Island
      • Puncak Jaya
      • Mount McPherson and Talbot
      • Single Cone
      • Mount Cook
      • Mount Aspiring
      • Manakau
    • Central Asia >
      • Kyrgyzstan 2021
  • Sorted by Year
    • 2008 Trip Reports
    • 2009 Trip Reports
    • 2010 Trip Reports
    • 2011 Trip Reports
    • 2012 Trip Reports
    • 2013 Trip Reports
    • 2014 Trip Reports
    • 2015 Trip Reports
    • 2016 Trip Reports
    • 2017 Trip Reports
    • 2018 Trip Reports
    • 2019 Trip Reports
    • 2020 Trip Reports
    • 2021 Trip Reports
    • 2022 Trip Reports
  • Vanlife
    • Conversion Journal >
      • Floor Installation
      • Folding Bed
      • Coffee Table
      • Thinsulate Installation
      • The Couch
      • The Wardrobe
      • Bookshelf
      • Water System
      • Electrical System
      • The Pantry
      • Refrigerator
      • Tire Upgrade
      • Heating System
      • Composting Toilet
  • About
    • Whats New
    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Foss Lakes Hike
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Shelf Road
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Montana Absarokas & Gallatin Range >
      • Black Mountain
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Sacajawea Peak
      • Arrow Peak
      • Koch Peak
      • Saddle Peak
      • Baldy Mountain
      • Sphinx Mountain
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
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LEMKE CLIMBS

Lanin Volcano

Lanin - 12388' - Chilean route Class 2+
Cerro San Sabastian - 6237' - Class 1
​March 2015

Eruption of Villarrica and Frustration Getting to Chile

Note this is the second installment of my trip to South America in February and March, 2015. To see Part 1 click the link at right!

Argentine Chronicles Volume 1 - Nahuel Huapi National Park

After thoroughly exploring Nahuel Huapi National Park (described in previous trip report), I narrowed in on the area surrounding Pucon, Chile. I made plans to take the international bus from San Martin de los Andes towards Temuco passing over the international border just north of Lanin, however the eruption of Villarrica, which sits directly above the town of Pucon decided to erupt and the crossing was closed. Since it would likely be closed for a few days I had no choice but to take buses back south and return to Osorno. This would unfortunately take a couple days so I figured I could relax awhile and bus from one town to the next. So I ended up getting a ticket to Villa la Angstura and stayed there for a night at a very nice hostel. Walking through town that afternoon I was bit by a dog (although I look back now and it was more of a nibble), nonetheless, it gave me a rabies scare so I went to the local doctor but since no one there spoke English it was hard to communicate. Finally I understood using Google Translate that there has never been a case of rabies anywhere near the area. I then walked back to the hostel and enjoyed a nice dinner (pizza again!) at a local shop that seemed to have issues with their power since the power would go out every 20 minutes or so.

 

Views from the bus to Villa La AngsturaViews from the bus to Villa La Angstura
Villa La AngsturaVilla La Angstura
Villa La AngsturaVilla La Angstura

 

The next morning I got a ticket across the border to Osorno. The ride to the border customs was short but since we were returning into Chile, the customs agents were much stricter in searching everyone's' bags. It took over an hour to have everything searched and passports stamped. I was the only one who spoke English there so spent lots of time daydreaming haha. Sometime in early afternoon we got to the bus station in Osorno and I got some Empanadas and a hot dog from the street vendors (I try to support them) before walking to the hospital across the street. To my dismay, no one spoke English there either so I struggled to find out how I could get a rabies shot (I wanted to be ultra safe). Luckily one of the women working there called up her son for me who spoke English and I was able to talk with him. Once she figured out what I wanted, I was able to get the shots and be on my way. Surprisingly they were free!

I waited another hour at the busy bus station and got on the bus to Pucon. A few hours later (10pm!) I got to Pucon and found an excellent hostel along the shore of the lake called Chili Kiwi. I was very surprised to see literally everyone speaking English inside, and it was nice to hear the stories of everyone's travels. The owner was Australian and many people there actually didn't even speak Spanish. I met up with a few planning to hike Cerro San Sebastian the next morning which coincidentally was my exact plan. The weather was looking great for the next day and there was also a small bus that went into the Parque Nacional Huerquehue! Finally I was in Chile and ready for my next hike after what seemed like days on buses.

 

Volcano Villirrica 3 days after it eruptedVillirrica 3 days after it erupted
PuconChili Kiwi Hostel in Pucon
Evening on Lago VillarricaEvening on Lago Villarrica

Cerro San Sebastian

The map I had of the Pucon area said that this peak, which had a nice trail all the way to the top, was the highest point in the park so it would be a nice way to see the surrounding landscape. We all got breakfast at the bakery a few blocks from the hostel on our way to the bus station and all got aboard. I think it was 5,000 Pesos for a round trip ride. Our group consisted of a guy from New Zealand, a girl from New York, a girl from England and myself. Upon arriving at the trailhead, I was annoyed we had to not only pay an entrance fee, but also had to sign in with the ranger. Luckily he didn't insist on checking our gear but we were delayed an hour or so waiting for everyone to sign in and pay the fee. 

Around 10:30 am we started up the trail which was through very nice old growth forests and bamboo shrubs. It was a cool, shady hike up to the broad south ridge of San Sebastian. At a signed junction in a large meadow we took a nice break and enjoyed our first views of Villarrica and Lanin. The trees on all the slopes here were very odd and I had never seen them before. They had very sharp points and resembled palm trees a little bit and I actually had to avoid touching them. As we continued up the trail, we descended slightly and re-entered an old growth forest. The trail began ascending steeply up the south ridge and as we gained elevation some of the plants and grasses began showing hints of fall color. Since this was early March it was the equivalent of early September in the northern hemisphere when colors first start appearing. Eventually we reached treeline and had to pass through two very steep sections under dense bushes similar to slide alder found in the Cascades. Veggie belays were required and the trail was very dusty. Beyond that it was an easy hike over boulders with one tiny scramble spot and a pleasant walk to the summit. To my disbelief, the summit just to the east was slightly higher and my map had lied. Looking at the map provided by the ranger though, it showed the correct elevations and San Sebastian was indeed the second highest point in the park. Regardless, the views were still astounding. With Lanin and Villarrica to the south and other volcanoes to the north, a large area of central Chile was visible under the crystal blue, cloudless sky.

We stood on the summit for over an hour by ourselves and I admired the views before starting down. I was able to get down very quickly and had enough time to take a dip in the lake near the picnic area before the bus arrived which was very nice since it had warmed up substantially and was outright hot. We all managed to catch the bus on time and return to Pucon with plenty of time for dinner and to hang out at the hostel.

 

Villarrica Lake at sunriseVillarrica Lake at sunrise
Fall foliage in early MarchFall foliage in early March
Alpine lake below San SebastianAlpine lake below San Sebastian
View north from the summitView north from the summit
Trail to San SebastianTrail to San Sebastian
San SebastianSan Sebastian
Alpine lake below San SebastianAlpine lake below San Sebastian
Looking down another ridge from the summitLooking down another ridge from the summit
Hiking up San SebastianHiking up San Sebastian
The start of fall on San SebastianThe start of fall on San Sebastian
Nearing the summit of San SebastianNearing the summit of San Sebastian
On the summit ridge to San SebastianOn the summit ridge to San Sebastian

Lanin Volcano and my Return Home

The next day it was somewhat drizzling so Markus and I spent the morning working out plans for our ascent of Lanin. I met him at the hostel and is from Germany. We decided since renting a car was so cheap we would do that and drive up towards the border but just before the guard station, turn off onto the dirt road heading towards the volcano. At about 5pm we got a car from Pucon Rent a Car which was only 22,000 Pesos per day ($35) and drove east. As we headed east the clouds began to get thicker and just as we arrived at our trailhead it started to rain. We noticed there was road work being done and realized they were dumping large amounts of dirt and rock in the large area at the end of the road we parked off. I was worried a 4 wheel drive would be required but since they had improved the road for trucks we were easily able to drive the whole way up! We walked around for a few minutes and located the trail through the trees which would provide easy passage to the start of the scree at the base of the mountain.

Since the rain picked up as it got dark we just slept in the car. Luckily the seats went down far enough and we both were able to get some sleep. I recall only waking up once around midnight to see the bright moon out and clear skies. I will admit I was getting worried it wasn't going to stop raining...I rested easier for a few more hours after seeing the sky clear but the full moon sure made it hard to get back to sleep. At 4:30am the alarms went off and we were pretty quick to be up and hiking. We made quick time to the formal base of the mountain and started hiking through baby-head cobbles which then transitioned into loose scree. We passed to the right of the waterfall I had read about but couldn't see it in the dark. Luckily we weren't able to see what we were ascending or we may have turned around right there but above us was a huge, broad scree gully rising something like 4,000 feet and to my dismay upon looking at the map on my phone only reached halfway up the mountain!

 

Sunrise from the endless gullySunrise from the endless gully
Hiking up the loose gullyHiking up the loose gully
Villarrica from the slopes of LaninVillarrica from the slopes of Lanin

 

As dawn started to come upon us, we were maybe 2,000 feet above the car slogging our way up the scree which was slowly getting steeper. At sunrise we were on maybe a 30 degree slope but the wonderful views to the north made us forget about the awful crap we were walking on. All I kept saying was that it would be fun to go down on our way out. About halfway up the dubbed "endless gully" the scree got worse and before long we weren't getting any upward push anymore. After a few hundred more feet I spotted a route that would potentially take us to the ridge to our left and hopefully more solid rock. Pssh solid rock on Lanin? What a joke!

So we cut left and managed to plow our way to the edge of the gully and scramble up but what I saw was two more gullies and ribs seperating us from the ridge I wanted to be on where I could clearly see some more solid rock. So we traversed across another loose gully toying death with scores of microwave sized death blocks teetering overhead. I led the way being exceptionally careful to keep all rocks in their place while Markus followed. Some Class 3 scrambling ensued to gain a small cliff band and eventually we reached the ridge where we were able to breathe easier and continue upwards with some solid ground. Maybe just 800 feet higher the terrain mellowed out and we reached a broad area of nothing but talus and scree but the going was substantially easier for awhile. We finally were able to see the summit and realized we probably were only halfway up and at this point it was almost noon. Around 1,000 meters below the summit Markus decided to call it a day when we came upon a nice bivy spot with flat, sandy ground. I took a half hour break to eat, drink and re-apply sunscreen before continuing on.

 

Ascending LaninMarkus Ascending Lanin
Scrambling the ridge on the Chilean side of LaninScrambling the ridge on the Chilean side of Lanin
Full view of Lanin from the highwayFull view of Lanin from the highway

 

The next 500 meters was up more talus until I reached the final section of the climb which consisted of steeper scrambling with immense amounts of loose rock. From below I wasn't able to spot a good looking route but now that I was up only 500 meters from the summit the best way was obvious. I had to avoid the gullies as much as possible so I stayed on small ridges which amazingly had some solid rock. Lots of Class 2+ scrambling ensued and eventually I noticed a large, guided group of 8 people maybe 500 feet above me who were headed down. All I could think was "oh great" as now I was right below them as they threw bowling balls (rocks) down on me (the pin). Luckily I was able to cut right onto another small ridge and get out from their fall zone and continue climbing and scrambling. I reached them right as they were all down climbing one of the tricky spots one at a time. They were moving very slow and dressed in full gore-tex clothing with stiff boots and huge gloves. I laughed inside as I was in my light sweats and a T-shirt without sunglasses or gloves on. I mean, sure Lanin is a big mountain and all but it was in the 60's and no wind to speak of on this beautiful day not to mention it was early March so there was not a single iota of snow on the route!

One of the guys asked where I had come from and I responded with a stern "The Chilean Side" and smiled. We exchanged where we were from and I continued on scrambling with extra care now that I would be above them. I actually stayed to the right to avoid being above them and before I knew it I was on the summit which turned out to be a huge area. I reached the highest rocky point then walked north for maybe 50 yards onto the glacier to the highest point where I was able to see Tronador, Osorno and other peaks of the Lake District. I looked at my phone and it was slightly after 3pm. "Plenty of time" I spoke as I relaxed on the summit, wishing now I had my sunglasses (which if you read my first trip report would know they were stolen, along with lots of other gear I had including my gloves, which thankfull were not needed).

 

Villarrica from the slopes of LaninVillarrica from the slopes of Lanin
View east from LaninView east from Lanin
Scrambling on the last 300 meters of LaninScrambling on the last 300 meters of Lanin
Villarrica from Lanin with the north side covered in ashVillarrica from Lanin with the north side covered in ash
Summit of LaninSummit of Lanin
Lake Tromen from the summit of LaninLake Tromen from the summit of Lanin

 

It was very bright on the summit so I didn't stay too long. Snapped some photos of Villarrica, Tronador and the surrounding scenery and started down. I found the main trail and started down it which was much easier than the scrambling I had done on the ascent. Within minutes I caught back up with the large group and thought to myself "god they're slow" and quickly passed them and began trending back to skiers left to stay in the Chilean side. The standard Argentina route and the Chilean route actually meet and follow the international border for the final 500 meters or so to the summit. 

Carefully, I scrambled down the small ridges and reached the talus below and within an hour of leaving the summit I met back up with Markus. He mentioned how eerie it was to be alone on a mountain for a few hours and expressed concern for the descent. I assurred him the descent would be fairly quick and actually fun since we could slide down the scree like we were skiing...kinda. So I took another break to eat (I was glad I brought a lot of food!) and we started down the mountain back to the car. Nearly 3 hours and 4 painful knees later we reached the car and caught some great lighting on the mountain as we finished the hike and started driving away.

 

Descending the gully of no endDescending the gully of no end
The waterfall near the base of LaninThe waterfall near the base of Lanin
Descending the gully of no end on LaninDescending the gully of no end on Lanin
Lanin with the long gully to the rightLanin with the long gully to the right
Looking up the long, loose gully on LaninLooking up the long, loose gully on Lanin
Boater on Laguna QuillelhueBoater on Laguna Quillelhue

 

We did a "warm down" walk along the lake a few miles down the road and drove back west towards Pucon. We struggled to find a place to camp and tried nearly a dozen different gravel roads with no luck. Everything seemed to be private property but just as it got dark we found a secluded place behind an old barn that offered some solitude from the houses across the pond. A satisfying dinner and copious amounts of beer immediately followed. We enjoyed the warm night sleeping under the stars and was surprised at how many meteors we saw. 

After sleeping in the next morning, we drove back to town and returned the rental car. The start of my long return back home would begin that afternoon so I showered at the hostel, packed everything up and enjoyed the final couple hours in the sun along the shore of Lake Villarrica before wishing Markus an enjoyable rest of his trip and walking to the bus station. My return home consisted of the equilivent of hell. See below for details:

3 hour bus to Osorno, 12 hour bus to Santiago, 12 hour wait for my flight, 9 hour flight to Miami, 4 hour flight to Denver, and a 6 hour drive to Salt Lake City where I met Jayme and we were able to crash. After that Jayme and I enjoyed a few nice days in the Utah desert before driving back to Bozeman but that is part of another story.

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