Vantage Overview

Vantage is probably the most popular rock climbing destination in the state of Washington boasting over 700 routes. This area has plenty of challenges for the veteran climber as well as many beginner routes. Vantage also has a good combination of sport and trad routes, and over 200 routes in the popular 5.10 range. Traditional climbing has come back into popularity recently, with many of the new routes at Green Wall and Middle East Wall being bolt free. The basalt pillars are perfectly vertical making Vantage a pumpy place to climb as there are fewer resting ledges however just about every climb is single pitch routes where a 60 meter rope is more than sufficient. These vertical pillars boast alternating traditional crack routes and bolted arete sport routes. This area was carved out by erosion during the last ice age and subsequent carving of the pillars occurred during the Lake Missoula floods that followed the retreat of the ice some 12,000 years ago.

The history of rock climbing in Vantage dates back to the early fifties. The first climbs were done in the Feathers area and at Zig Zag Wall. Traditional climbing was readily developed in the fifties, sixties, seventies, and eighties. In the late eighties and especially the nineties, the vast majority of new routes here were bolted sport climbs. Many unprotectable face climbs, to fill in the huge gaps between the good crack routes, were added at popular areas such as Sunshine Wall. On a map and in older guides, you will notice the area referred to by its proper name, Frenchman Coulee. However, the majority of climbers call this place at Vantage, due to its proximity to the small town with the same name.

There are three major areas in Vantage which are known as the Feathers, Sunshine Wall, and the Middle East Wall all of which have their advantages and perks. The sunshine wall is probably the winter cragging wall in the state of Washington as it is located east of the Cascade Range where it is warmer and has less precipitation and is also south facing which means the sun still hits the wall and warms the rock nicely even in winter. The wall is also protected from the wind so with all these taken into account, the sunshine wall is a great place to climb in late fall through early spring. During the summer this wall gets too hot and fewer people climb here. The King Pins section of this wall boasts the most classic crack climbs such as Air Guitar, George and Martha, and Pony Keg. The approach hike to the Sunshine Wall takes about 15 minutes and described in more detail below.

The Feathers area is a good beginners area which boasts many shorter and easier routes great for kids, families and beginners on lead. There are a bunch of short rock towers here with dozens of routes. This area also has the shortest approach and located within spitting distance to the camping area. The Middle East Wall is located to the north of the Sunshine Wall on the opposite side of the mesa right above the Vantage Road just west of the camping area. This wall is north facing and a popular wall in the summer where it is more shaded and cooler on those 100 degree summer days. There are many great high quality crack routes here but I have not yet climbed here so I will provide more information later for this wall. 

Getting to Vantage

Vantage is incredibly easy to get to. Take I-90 east out of Seattle and head over Snoqualmie Pass. If you are headed here sometime in the winter you will notice the clouds, the rain and the snow slowly disappear and the sun come out as you approach Ellensberg. Continue east until you head down the long hill to the Columbia River and cross the bridge over the river. The small town of Vantage offers a couple gas stations and a couple places to eat and is located just before you cross the bridge on the river. The Columbia River crossing is 134 miles from Seattle and takes a couple hours to drive to. After crossing the bridge, follow the freeway another 8 miles and take exit 143 for "Silica Road" which you will turn left onto. After a mile or so turn left onto Vantage Road and follow this to the camping area and parking lot. Free camping is found here and there are a couple people I've seen that call this their home. A map of the Vantage area is shown below.

DARK BLUE: The Feathers
LIGHT BLUE: Middle East Wall
ORANGE: Sunshine Wall
PINK: Zig Zag Wall
GREEN: Trail to Sunshine Wall
PURPLE: Trail to Powerhouse Wall

Sunshine Wall

Walking through The Slot

Typical Vantage Climbing

The Sunshine Wall is probably the best all around wall at Vantage and is accessed by a 15 minute hile from the parking area where you head southwest past Agatha Tower and ascend to the mesa top. The green line above shows the route. Once atop the mesa there are two options. You can take a left at the small metal sign and head south to The Slot or continue to the right towards the gullies. If you head for the gullies the hike is a little further and gets you to the far (west) end of the wall. Most of the gullies can be downclimbed with class 3 or 4 scrambling. If your objective is the far end or the tilted pillars sections (far west side) of the Sunshine Wall, this is the way to go. If you are wanting to head to the King Pins, the Near End or the Twin Cracks sections then take The Slot which dumps you out on the east end of the wall. The Slot is a short tunnel you squeeze down through between two pillars which gets you to the base of the wall. Catch the trail that parallels the base of the wall from here. Don't descend all the way to the bottom of Echo Basin. At the bottom of The Slot if you head left (east) on the purple trail shown above you will get to the Powerhouse Wall near the waterfall at the head of Echo Basin. From east to west the sections are Twin Cracks, Near End, Coyote Wall, King Pins, Tilted Pillars, and the Far End. There are literally hundreds of climbs to be done on the Sunshine Wall and I will only describe/show ones I have done. As I continue to do more I will update this page accordingly. I will describe the routes from east to west starting at The Slot.
Note: Only routes I did with 2 or more stars are described below.

Party in your Pants - 5.8

A climber on the route - Photo by Brian Jenkins

This route is a great beginner trad lead and has numerous rest stances. It's located in the Twin Cracks section and is the first prominent inset double crack you see upon rounding the corner after you come down The Slot. It features a double crack and much stemming. At 90 feet long, this is one of the longest climbs on the Sunshine Wall and requires a 60 meter rope. There are good bolted anchor chains at the top. Just to make the climb that much better there are a handful of bulges you must work over which are the cruxes of the climb. The protection is quite good. 

Gear: At least 2 sets of cams from 0.5" - 3" and some larger hexes/nuts work well. See if you can find the absolute bomber hex placement near the top on the right side!

When Climbed: Clean TR February 2013. Clean Lead March 2013

Sunshine Buttress - 5.10a

This is an excellent climb, maybe the best sport climb at the Sunshine Wall. 15 bolts lead up to a nice anchor and the climbing varies from face climbing, to finger cracks, stemming and mantling. The crux is the last few moves. 

Gear: 15 draws and some biners for the top

When Climbed: Clean TR March 2013. Clean Lead April 2013

Steel Grille - 5.9

Leading Steel Grille - Photo by rpc

This route is a fantastic climb that is much better than it first appears. Located one crack right of the Bob's Your Uncle 11a, it starts out on a thin hand jam and about 15 feet up is the first good rest stance. The rest of the climb is off-width climbing however no real jams are needed since most of the climb can be done with face climbing and stemming. The last 5 feet is a wide chimney that you can lie into and pull up to reach the bolted anchors. This climb protects well and has two distinct cruxes. The first being the starting 15 feet to the first good stance and the second being the final 5 feet. I top-roped it in April 2013 and will lead it on my next visit. 

Gear: 2 sets of cams from 0.75" - 4" and some large nuts and/or hexes. A number 5 cam is also helpful for the final moves. 

When Climbed: Clean TR April 2013.

Sinsemilla - 5.10c

Sinsemilla route photo...follow the yellow arrow - Original photo by Martin Cash

This route is a fantastic double crack offering great stemming and finger crack moves. It's located just to the right (east) of the Stroking the Chicken chimney and it starts up on a small elevated bench about 20 feet above the trail. The crux was about halfway up where footholds became slightly more scarce. Protection is good on both cracks but the left crack is used more. Unfortunately there aren't bolts at the top so you will have to build an anchor if you wish to toprope this climb. 

Gear: Bring a set of cams up to 3" and lots of medium sized nuts. Maybe also bring some small stuff. Also bring extra gear to make an anchor if you wish to toprope.

When Climbed: TR February 2013 two takes

Justified Ancients of Mu Mu - 5.8 and Corner Pockets 5.10a

Climbing Mu Mu and Corner Pockets

These route are located just to the right of Throbbing Gristle near the two chimney climbs Stroking the Chicken and Shady Chimney. The Mu Mu sport climb starts out a nice face climb and continues up to a huge ledge with an old set of chains and up an arete to bolted anchors above. The route crosses right over the Corner Pockets crack and this climb can also be used to set up a toprope on the 5.9 first pitch of Corner Pockets. Corner Pockets starts up the crappy crack just right of Mu Mu and continues up the thin dihedral shown in the photo. You must top out on this climb as there are no anchors. Walk right and rappel on the anchor for Bobs Your Uncle/Steel Grille.

Gear: 9 draws and some biners for Mu Mu / Standard rack 0.3" - 2" plus extra smaller stuff like nuts or Mastercams for Corner Pockets.

When Climbed: Clean TR March 2013 (Both routes). Clean Lead April 2013 (Mu Mu)

Stroking the Chicken - 5.6

Me leading Stroking the Chicken

This route is an excellent beginner lead with great protection and interesting chimney moves. I led it February 2013. It's located just to the right of the Whipsaw arete sport route (shown in the photo just left of Josh) in the King Pins section. This is another climb where there are no bolts at the top so you will have to build an anchor to toprope. Footholds are plentiful and there are plenty of spots to rest. Jamb the left side crack and stem off the column on your right. Work your way up to the chockstone above. When I was there in February 2013 there was a good sling around the chalkstone. The crux is getting up onto the chalkstone. Once on it, either turn around 180 degrees and stem your way up or commit to the chimney on the right side. If you chimney it, it's a stiff 5.6. At the top there is a nice rock you can sling a 24" sling around and a couple cracks to put some larger cams into for an anchor. 

Gear: 1 set of cams from 0.3" to 2" and two 3" cams. One set of nuts and also bring some larger hexes which fit well into the larger crack about halfway up. A few small stuff works well for the thin crack above the chalkstone.


When Climbed: Clean Lead February 2013

Whipsaw - 5.9

Whipsaw is the thin arete just left of Josh

This bolted arete is a really fun sport climb and is exposed giving you an airy feeling. The crux is near the middle of the climb. It's located between Pony Keg and Stroking the Chicken in the King Pins Area. The holds on this climb are unusually slimy and smooth due to overuse.

Gear: There are 10 bolts on the left side and a bolted anchor at the top.

When Climbed: TR November 2012 (DNF) and Clean January 2013. Ugly Lead April 2013

Pony Keg - 5.9

Pony Keg crack shown with blue arrow

This route is one of the classic Vantage crack climbs. It's pretty stiff for a 5.9 but good for hand jambs. It's located right to the right of Air Guitar. Scramble up about 15 feet above the trail to a rock ledge with the Goran Kropp inscribed memorial. Jamb up Pony Keg which is the widest (fist) at the top. There are a few good places to stem and rest and the protection is quite good. The bolted anchor at the top is shared with the Whipsaw arete climb and if you plan to have others top rope it it's a good idea to leave a directional.

Gear: 1 set of cams from 0.5" - 4" with a double of the #2 and #3. Also bring a handful of larges nuts or hexes. The cracks in this area are not good to run out. 

When Climbed: TR November 2012 (DNF) and Clean February 2013

Air Guitar 5.10a

Air Guitar crack shown with blue arrow

This is another classic crack just left of Pony Keg and is supposedly a little harder but I thought otherwise. I have top roped this twice, the first time (November 2012) took forever and the second time (February 2013) I did it almost cleanly. Making progress! The crack starts out thin at the base and gets wider as you ascend. The last couple moves are almost off width. Don't run out this crack. The spike at the base has the scripted Goran Kropp memorial. At the top is a nice bolted anchor. 

Gear: Cams to 3" and a double on the #3. Maybe bring a #4 for the very top. Some tcu's also work great. Maybe also bring some hexes and nuts as they fit well in this crack and you prefer those over tcu's.

When Climbed: TR November 2012 (ugly) and Clean February 2013

Crossing the Threshold - 5.8

Crossing the Threshold double crack shown with blue arrow

This was my first 5.8 trad lead (February 2013) and is one of my favorite routes at Vantage. Located just left of Air Guitar makes this one spot offer three classic trad climbs. To do this climb jamb your hands in both cracks and stem to either side the whole way up. There is a bolted anchor at the top. Long draws help with this climb if you place gear in both cracks. Protection is great and this makes another awesome beginner trad lead.

Gear: 2 sets of cams from 0.5" - 3" with some nuts as well. 

When Climbed: TR November 2012. Clean Leads February 2013 and March 2013

Clip em or Skip em - 5.8

This sport route is a fun arete climb located just to the left of Crossing the Threshold and a good one to warm up on. Just about all the holds are nice jugs. When you rappel this route be careful not to get the rope caught in the rope-eater notch...it will get stuck!

Gear: There are 10 bolts on the ridht side of the climb and a bolted anchor at the top.

When Climbed: TR November 2012. Clean Leads February 2013 and beyond

Vantage Point - 5.8

This is an exposed arete climb that has been known to have the wind blow people off the route! Excellent warm up climb with lots of jugs and the crux being the last small overhanging move to the bolted anchor.

Gear: 11 draws and some biners 

When Climbed: TR November 2012 and Clean January 2013. Clean Lead February 2013