Oregon Volcanoes

LEMKE CLIMBS

The Oregon Volcanoes are a north to south oriented line of high volcanic peaks most resembling large domes which offer a huge variety of routes from a nice hike to a serious alpine ice climbing adventure. Described below are the major volcanoes in Oregon and a brief description of each one. There are dozens of volcanoes in this chain so this list is by no means exhaustive.

Mount Hood

South side of Mount Hood - Photo by Alpanist

At 50 miles east of Portland, Oregon's largest city, Mount Hood stands proudly at 11,239 feet and is the highest peak in the state. This is one of the most ascended peaks in the country and makes for an awesome alpine playground. In winter, a large ski area operates on the south side of the mountain above the Timberline Lodge and cross country skiers flank the mountain on every nice day. In summer aspiring mountaineers make the trek to the summit on a variety of routes. The standard south route is mainly a simple hike up gentle snow with a spicy finish on a hogsback just before the summit. The North Face and Leuthold Couloir routes make for awesome steep snow and ice climbs. Another good steep snow route with an easier flavor is the Cooper Spur however this route is exposed and therefore this is the deadliest route on the mountain.

Mount Hood last erupted in 1907 and there are still many venting fumaroles, however it is regarded to be a dormant volcano at the moment. Although this mountain is considerable shorter than Rainier or Shasta and the trip to the summit is somewhat easier, do not underestimate it. Bad weather has caught too many unprepared parties and caused numerous accidents that could have been avoided. Approach Mount Hood the same as you would Mount Rainier!

Mount Jefferson

The next peak south of Mount Hood is the 10,497 foot Mount Jefferson coming in at the second highest peak in Oregon. Although this peak is shorter is has a more alpine feel to it as there is some 4th class rock scrambling at the top no matter which route you take. Actually this summit scramble can be ice encrusted in fall or very loose rock so protecting it can be difficult. The Jefferson Park Glacier route is a classic and makes an awesome overall climb that ascends moderate to steep snow and finishes the summit pinnacle on low 5th class loose rock. Mount Jefferson is generally regarded to be extinct with the last estimated eruption about 40,000 years ago. Therefore, you don't have to worry about it erupting while you climb it!

Three Fingered Jack

Three Fingered Jack - Photo by Karl Helser

Three Fingered Jack is a shorter peak rising at 7,841 feet and is one of the oldest volcanic peaks in the Cascade Range. Located between Mount Jefferson and the Three Sisters, the peak has a rugged look to it but the rock is incredibly terrible. This is a popular peak to climb but the South Ridge is the only really enjoyable route. The summit pinnacle does have some low 5th class climbing and there is a magic chimney/crack where the rock is slightly better and will accept protection. The climb only rises 3000 feet so it can be done in an easy day.

Crater Lake

Crater Lake, being the only national park in Oregon is rightfully a popular, yet spectacular place. The quote written by the first people of European descent to discover the lake suits it well.
"On the evening of the first day, while riding up a long, sloping mountain, we suddenly came in sight of water, and were very much surprised, as we did not expect to see any lakes, and did not know but what we had come in sight of and close to Klamath Lake, and not until my mule stopped within a few feet of the rim of Crater Lake did I look down, and if I had been riding a blind mule I firmly believe I would have ridden over the edge to death and destruction. We came to the lake a very little to the right of a small sloping butte or mountain, situated in the lake, with a top somewhat flattened. Every man of the party gazed with wonder at the sight before him, and each in his own peculiar way gave expression to the thoughts within him; but we had no time to lose, and after rolling some boulders down the side of the lake, we rode to the left, as near the rim as possible, past the butte, looking to see an outlet for the lake, but we could find none. "