LEMKE CLIMBS
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    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Foss Lakes Hike
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Shelf Road
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Montana Absarokas & Gallatin Range >
      • Black Mountain
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Sacajawea Peak
      • Arrow Peak
      • Koch Peak
      • Saddle Peak
      • Baldy Mountain
      • Sphinx Mountain
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
      • Dry Fork Slots, Coyote Gulch
      • Little Death Hollow/Wolverine Canyons
      • Egypt 3 Slot
      • Egypt 1 Canyon
    • Zion/Bryce >
      • Ataxia Tower Ashtar Command 5.9
      • Mount Kinesava Cowboy Ridge
      • Birch Hollow
      • Aires Butte
      • West Temple
      • Mystery Canyon
      • Crazy Streak
    • Cedar Mesa Region/Valley of the Gods >
      • Eagle Plume Tower Eagle Feather 5.10b
  • California
    • High Sierras, Southern CA Ranges >
      • Telescope Peak, Manly Beacon
      • Tahquitz Rock Whodunit 5.9
      • Tahquitz Rock Long Route 5.9
      • Palisade Traverse
      • White Mountain
    • Yosemite National Park, Central CA
    • Northern CA Cascades >
      • Lava Beds National Monument
      • Mount Shasta
  • Oregon
    • Oregon Volcanoes >
      • Three Fingered Jack
      • Mount Scott
    • Blue Mountains >
      • Twin Peaks
    • Trout Creek Rock Climbing
  • Alaska
    • Eagle Peak and Mount Ewe
    • Jatt Peak and Portage Pass
    • Rainbow Peak
    • Mount Brooks Attempt
    • Arrigetch Peaks Trek
    • Ab Mountain Hike
    • South Suicide Peak
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge Attempt
    • Cantata Peak Attempt
    • East Twin Peak
    • Mount Alice
    • Crow Pass and Hope Point Hikes
    • Indianhouse Mountain Attempt
    • Lynx Peak
    • Harding Icefield Hike
    • Hatcher Pass and Grapefruit Rocks Climbing
    • Mount Sanford
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge
  • Nevada
    • Ginger Cracks 5.8
    • Mescalito Dark Shadows 5.8
    • Birdland and Olive Oil
    • Frogland 5.8
    • Johnny Vegas 5.8
    • Schaeffer's Delight & Triassic Sands
    • Solar Slab - 5.6
  • British Columbia
    • Mount Matier
    • Taiya Peak
    • Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge
    • Mount Sabine Easy Honey 5.10b
    • Mount Sir Donald NW Ridge Attempt
    • Black Tusk
    • Squamish Ticks
    • Slesse Mountain NE Buttress
    • Warden Peak
    • Triple Peak
  • Alberta
    • Mist Ridge Hike
    • Mount Temple Attempt
    • East Wendell Peak
    • Loder Peak
    • Tower Mountain Attempt
    • The Rimwall
    • Mount Yamnuska Directissima 5.9
    • Mount Lawrence Grassi
    • Mount Lorette
    • Roche A Perdrix
    • Mount Edith Cavell East Ridge 5.3
    • Mount Louis Kain Route
    • Eiffel Peak
    • Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing
  • Other States
    • Arizona >
      • Grand Canyon Bright Angel Trail
      • Beanfest at Cochise Stronghold
      • Baboquivari Peak
      • Humphreys Peak
    • New Mexico >
      • Philmont Trek August 2008
    • Yukon >
      • Canyon Peak
  • International
    • Mexico & Central America >
      • Mexico - Pico de Orizaba, Izta
      • Guatemala Volcanoes
    • South America >
      • An Introduction to Patagonia
      • Cordillera Blanca - Tocllaraju and Urus
      • Nahuel Huapi National Park & The Frey
      • Exploring Pucon and Lanin Volcano
      • Cordillera Blanca - Ishinca Peak and Artesonraju
      • Cordillera Blanca - Quitaraju & Alpamayo
      • Exploring Southern Peru
      • Cerro Helio Azul & Tronador Attempt
      • Aguja Guillaumet Amy Couloir
      • Cerro Puntado & Palo
      • Cerro Colorado
      • Cerro Puno & Agudo
      • Cerro Trinidad Attempt
      • Volcan Quetrupillan
      • Cerro Placas
      • Nevado de Acay
      • Pequeno Alpamayo
      • Huayna Potosi
      • Illimani
      • Chiaro de Luna
      • Cerro Barros Arana
    • Oceania >
      • Exploring New Zealand's South Island
      • Puncak Jaya
      • Mount McPherson and Talbot
      • Single Cone
      • Mount Cook
      • Mount Aspiring
      • Manakau
    • Central Asia >
      • Kyrgyzstan 2021
  • Sorted by Year
    • 2008 Trip Reports
    • 2009 Trip Reports
    • 2010 Trip Reports
    • 2011 Trip Reports
    • 2012 Trip Reports
    • 2013 Trip Reports
    • 2014 Trip Reports
    • 2015 Trip Reports
    • 2016 Trip Reports
    • 2017 Trip Reports
    • 2018 Trip Reports
    • 2019 Trip Reports
    • 2020 Trip Reports
    • 2021 Trip Reports
    • 2022 Trip Reports
  • Vanlife
    • Conversion Journal >
      • Floor Installation
      • Folding Bed
      • Coffee Table
      • Thinsulate Installation
      • The Couch
      • The Wardrobe
      • Bookshelf
      • Water System
      • Electrical System
      • The Pantry
      • Refrigerator
      • Tire Upgrade
      • Heating System
      • Composting Toilet
  • About
    • Whats New
    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Foss Lakes Hike
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Shelf Road
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Montana Absarokas & Gallatin Range >
      • Black Mountain
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Sacajawea Peak
      • Arrow Peak
      • Koch Peak
      • Saddle Peak
      • Baldy Mountain
      • Sphinx Mountain
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
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LEMKE CLIMBS

shenanigans & Leprechaun Canyons

shenanigans canyon & leprechaun canyon - 3A for both
May 2011

MY LEPRECHAUN CANYON PAGE ON SP

Leprechaun Canyon Overview

Leprechaun Canyon is a short and sweet technical canyon located just to the northeast of Utah Highway 95. The canyon has two forks; the west and east fork both of which have their perks. The West fork is a narrow squeeze pretty much the whole way where the east fork is a little wider and has more opportunity for some interesting canyoneering moves and down climbs. The east fork also has better opportunities for some very nice slot canyon photography. Most of the photos on this page were taken in the east fork.

Both of these forks can be done in a couple hours each plus approach time. They are also very close to a highway which makes them great canyons to do on the go. Great camping spots can be found at the mouth of Leprechaun Canyon just off the highway but they can fill up in the peak spring and fall seasons.

Getting There

Leprechaun Canyon
Main fork of Leprechaun Canyon
 
Leprechaun Canyon
Main fork of Leprechaun Canyon

Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon

Leprechaun Canyon can be done two ways. The easy way is to park just off the highway and walk up the canyon until you can't go any further. The Main fork is a wide open easy walk but the slightly more adventurous can get about halfway up the west fork from the bottom before getting to a wall that can't be up climbed. The easy fork can't be climbed up at all from the bottom as a rappel at the end guards it.

To complete one of the forks drive north in highway 95 and turn right (east) onto the Cedar Point Road about .8 miles north of the Highway 276 junction. This road has been degrading and is difficult for low clearance vehicles but doable. Drive 3.5 miles on this road and park. From where you park generally head south until you see Leprechaun Canyon. It's easy to spot each fork and you can rim walk around one or the other depending on which you choose to do. To do the west fork, drop onto the Navajo Sandstone and you will enter the canyon with a short rappel or down climb depending on your comfort level.



View above Leprechaun Canyon
View above Leprechaun Canyon

East Fork Leprechaun Canyon

To do the east fork, drop onto the Navajo Sandstone on the east side and you will enter the canyon with a short rappel or down climb depending on your comfort level. Once in the canyon continue down working your way around some obstacles and drops that are all pretty easy. Another short rappel is passed but this one can also be down climbed. You'll pass through a small open area in the canyon before coming to the last rappel that drops into the Main Fork. This rappel is also down climbable but it's best to rappel. Once in the Main Fork walk down and pass the tiny slot that you can choose to walk around if you wish. Just past that start climbing up the steep Navajo Sandstone on the right (west) side of the canyon and continue climbing up at the path of least resistance until you top out at the rim. From the rim you can walk north along it back to the road where your car is.


Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Leprechaun Canyon
Rappel in Leprechaun Canyon

West Fork of Leprechaun Canyon

To do the west fork, park in the same spot as described above and head cross country but instead drop into the West fork instead of the east. One rappel is done at the very top to drop in. Past that the west fork is a half mile long narrow slot, often slanted with no real other difficulty. It is always dark in this slot and I have failed every time to get good photos here. Once you get into the Main fork follow the same return route. It is advised you be pretty thin to tackle this slot canyon.

Red Tape

Both of these slots are easier than they have been described to be but that doesn't mean you can descend them without the proper gear and experience. Be very careful in these canyons. Although they may be simple technical canyons and close to the highway...they still pose all the same dangers any other slot would. Be sure you have a 60 meter rope, harnesses and a belay device such as an ATC. Blue jeans are also very helpful to keep your knees from getting scarred up on the rough canyon walls.

The climb out the canyon to the rim on the west side can also be torturous in the summer heat. Bring lots of water. These canyons have no red tape but please leave no trace and DO NOT scratch the canyon walls. I was very disappointed to have seen this when I descended the East fork.

External Links

See Michael Kelsey's Technical Canyoneering Guide to the Colorado Plateau for a great description of the canyon. Note that he calls this canyon 28.1 Mile canyon as it is locates at mile marker 28.1 on Highway 95.


My Shenanigans Canyon Page on SP

Overview

Shenanigans Canyon is a technical canyon that drains into the West fork of Butler Wash located in the southern part of Robbers Roost Country. It drains into North Wash which then drains into Lake Powell. This canyon isn't for the claustrophobic or the faint of heart. At it's narrowest the canyon is merely 110 inches wide and even I, being 6 foot 9 inches tall and only weighing 180 pounds had trouble getting through the narrowest part. This canyon requires at least a 60 meter rope for the rappels. The canyon can be divided into three sections. The upper section is fun to practice your down climbing, chimneying and stemming skills as the canyon isn't very deep but the bottom is a pain to walk directly on. The walls in the upper part concave nicely for easy canyoneering moves. The middle portion is a mixture of very narrow slots and more open canyoneering. Many drops need to be down climbed or slid down in this section. The last part is the most difficult and consists of a 150 foot section of extreme narrows where you'd better be very skinny or you aren't going to make it. The canyon dumps into Butler Wash with two 14 meter rappels into a pool of water where swimming can be avoided. There is an entry/exit point and a large open area between each of the three sections that can be used in emergency situations.

Henry Mountains
Henry Mountains from Cedar Point

Getting There

Getting to Shenanigans Canyon is actually pretty easy. To do the whole Canyon you must do a loop hike and there are many places to park to start and end your loop. The place I'd recommend you park is 4 miles out on the Cedar Point Road which heads east off Utah Highway 95 about .8 miles north on the Highway 276 junction. The entire loop will take at least 5 hours for the skilled canyoneer and up to 8 hours or more for larger groups and amateurs. The Cedar Point road has been recently degrading and as of May 2011, it would have been difficult for low clearance cars to go much further than a mile, though still doable if driven carefully. To get to the starting point drive four miles east on the Cedar Point Road where you will find a small road heading off to the right. This road goes maybe a half mile and ends. This is where you'll park and you will see a panoramic view overlooking Butler Wash. If you are nestled into a wash bottom you took the wrong spur road. Make sure you check the mileage on your car when you first turn off Highway 95.

South Fork of Maidenwater CanyonNorth Wash Canyons

Shenanigans Canyon Part 1

Assuming you start from the place described above, you can walk the spur road back to the main dirt road and head about another mile up the road until you see a small pull off where you then can hike cross country due east towards the upper end of Shenanigans. This is the long way though. I'd recommend walking up the spur road about 500 feet and then veer right off the road and head cross country in a northwestern direction near the rim of Butler Wash. Stay high and back far enough from the rim so that you aren't going up and down the many small washes in the lower member of the red colored Carmel Formation. The more orange colored upper member is much gentler.You will find yourself along the rim of the West Fork of Butler. Walk along this rim until you get to the very upper reaches of the west fork and then cross the drainage and head over the ridge separating the West and Middle Fork. Shenanigans Canyon is the same as the Middle Fork of West Butler. The Middle Fork is considerably longer than the west so you'll have to head further north after rounding the west fork.When you get to the first drop into the Middle Fork walk around to the east side and down climb some steps to the ledge below where you will find a rappel anchor around a pile of rocks. You can either rappel down the chute here or walk around to the east side and find a route down the steep Navajo Sandstone. This down climb isn't very easy and is exposed but is doable for an amateur canyoneer to avoid rappelling. Once at the canyon bottom head down stream where you will find perfect canyon walls for stemming and bridging. It is actually very annoying to walk the bottom of the canyon in the upper part. You'll come to a narrow chute about 15 feet high that you'll have to friction slide down using the canyon walls. I'd recommend you wear jeans. Once you pass this slide down there is no escape until the first exit. You can rest here and exit if you need to. If you are not equipped with rappelling gear and you down climbed all the drops in the upper third it would be wise to exit here although it is possible that the second part of the canyon be down climbed if you are very experienced.

Shenanigans Shenanigans Shenanigans Shenanigans

Shenanigans Canyon Part 2

As quickly as the canyon opened up it begins to slot again and there was one small pothole of water to work around. This was the only water we saw in the slot and was pretty east to stem across. Continue working through some very photogenic narrows and some twisty curves in the canyon before getting to a long right slanted section of extreme narrows averaging about a foot wide. This spot is about 200 feet long and slanted at about 15-20 degrees to the right. It took awhile to get through and this was the darkest part of the canyon. After passing through the slanted section it got a little easier. There were decent sized drops over chalkstones here and there, all of which were easily down climbed using a little friction sliding action. The Canyon then opens up a second time and offers another escape route. It is here that you must exit if you aren't equipped with rappelling gear no matter how good you are. If you found any difficulty whatsoever squeezing through the slanted section I'd advise exiting because the narrows in the last part are two inches narrower which is a big difference.

Shenanigans
Shenanigans
Narrow slanted section...Narrow slanted section
Shenanigans
Shenanigans

Shenanigans Canyon Part 3

The canyon slots up again and the third part begins with a few drops and some relatively easy narrows before getting to an interesting feature. A large 25 foot drop appears but the rappelling anchor is located on the other side of a small ledge that is seen on the right side of the canyon. You must belly crawl on this ledge as there is rock above you. Stay as close to the wall as you can and be sure you don't roll over and down into the drop to the left. Once on the other side of the ledge, you can set up the rappel and head down.Shortly after this rappel is the extreme narrows that average 10 inches wide. I found myself in very strange positions getting through this part. The most memorable being twisted completely sideways with my knees on the ground and one hand on the ground leading me. The other arm was positioned straight up and my head turned looking at the ground as I slithered through. If you are over 200 pounds you will not make it unless you are over 6 feet and 6 inches tall however even at that height and taller, you'd probably want to be less than 200 pounds. You won't be able to just force yourself through this section. You'll have to scout around for the areas that are slightly wider and move up and down to those areas. Many times these are at the very bottom. If you manage to get stuck, don't panic! Thats all I can say. If you are unable to make it through you'll have to backtrack which can be very hard to do as there was the rappel and belly crawl you came down.

ShenanigansShenanigans Canyon Narrows
ShenanigansShenanigans Canyon Narrows

ShenanigansThis is the ledge you'll need to crawl on to get to the anchor

After the extreme narrows, it widens slightly and eventually comes to the final two rappels where you will find slings around some chalkstones. The first can be down climbed by an experienced canyoneer but everyone will have to rappel the second drop. If you have a 60 meter rope you'll have to do the rappels separately as there is a 10 foot ledge between them. At the bottom of the second drop there will always be a pool of water however you can avoid swimming by carefully wading at ankle deep on a ledge on the left side of the pool. 

 
Last RappelBottom of last rappel and the pool of water

Butler Wash Exit

Once across the pool, head down stream in the wide open Butler Wash. In May when we went everything was bright green and beautiful. Keep an eye out for the large arch high on the walls on Butler Canyon as you walk. 

 
Butler WashButler Wash
 

After nearly a mile of easy walking locate a fault line canyon that heads up to the right. This is your exit route. The hardest part of the climb is the first move. Continue steeply on semi-loose rock until you get about 2/3 the way up and you'll see a cairn that directs you to the right. Head around to the right on Navajo Sandstone following cairns until you get to the rim. Once at the rim your car will be visible about a third of a mile away.

 
Climbing out...Views climbing out of Butler Wash

Camping/Red Tape/Map

There are great campsites with fire rings just off Highway 95 near the mouth of Leprechaun Canyon. There is also many spur roads leading off the Cedar Point Road to secluded campsites. All camping in the area is free. There is no red tape and this canyon lies on wild BLM lands. Please avoid stepping on the crypto soil if travelling cross country and leave no trace.

West Fork Butler Slots MapMap showing the routes and starting points for Shenanigans Canyon

External Links

See Michael Kelsey's book Technical Canyoneering guide to the Colorado Plateau for a great description of the canyon. Also check out Tom's site about the canyon here:  Shenanigans Canyon

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