Mount Olympus - 7995' - Blue Glacier Class 5.4
June 2015
Ahhh...Mount Olympus! The allure of the highest peak on the Olympic Peninsula and the long 20 mile approach make this a very rewarding climb. On June 4, 2015, Josh, Mike and Jayme joined me on a 3 day climb of the North Ridge route of Mount Olympus. We chose this route for its solid rock and because reports claimed that the moat at the base of the climb had already opened. This was an amazing sounding climb because I had always wanted to climb Olympus. Before beginning we all agreed, with regard to the excellent forecast, to pack as light as reasonably possible for the 3 days. We shared one stove and went totally minimal. Nobody's pack weighed more than 35 pounds and I want to think that was integral to our success. Jayme and I had actually just driven to WA from Bozeman to start our summer vacation, and we headed out for Lynnwood after resting for a day upon arriving to Renton. We picked up Josh and Mike and then took the ferry over to Kingston. We continued over the Hood Canal Bridge and around through Port Angeles to the Hoh River Road which we took all the way to its end. The forests were just as thick as I remembered from the past. While we were in Port Angeles, we stopped at the ranger station to get our free permit and they informed us that despite it being early June the mountain was in late August conditions!
Starting up the trail from the crowded parking lot at 11am, we had a late start but believed we would be able to make it at least to Glacier Meadows. We quickly passed the herds of tourists and after 5 miles we stopped at an open spot by the Hoh River. We passed many large trees and even spooked a couple black bears. Here we took a snack break, and Mike commented that a small trail leading to a view of Mount Tom had been washed away by a change in course of the Hoh River. We continued an additional 4 miles to a large cabin operated sometimes by the rangers. Here there was a large open meadow and some benches to relax on. Another snack break ensued and we climbed around the cabin trying to find a way in (no such luck haha). From this point on, we crossed a very high bridge where the Hoh River was over 100 feet below, and started going up the steeper trail as it switchbacked above Glacier Creek. Josh and Mike continued on ahead and spotted a great camp site just before Elk Lake just as we finished the final mile and a half. Turns out this was the established 15 mile camp, which ended up being a nice spot sheltered with large trees. A small creek was just a short walk away for water. Once Jayme and I got there Josh informed us that camping at Elk Lake, just a little further up the trail didn't have many good options, so we were happy here. We set up a small campfire and pitched the tents. Josh didn't want to hang his bear bags by himself since he was scared of bears. I told him to get over it lol! About an hour after dark we went to sleep and got well deserved rest.
The next morning, despite earlier plans to wake up at some heinous hour like 3am (I don't do that), we slept in until 9 to be more rested for our day and started out strong. Morning shade kept the hiking cool in the dewy meadows and weepy woods. I was shocked both by the lack of snow as the views started opening up. Arriving at the ladder, we easily dropped down the well built ladder and ascended back to where the trail met the slide. The slope was actually not as steep as I had imagined and probably could have managed without the ladder. Glacier meadows was a beautiful display of wildflowers already blooming, however Olympus still hadn't been seen. Only a glimpse of Snow Dome can be seen on the trail to Glacier Meadows. We were all very low on water (a recurring theme) and passed up the opportunity to refill before the moraine thinking we could use the edge of the glacier. By 11am, we reached the moraine and finally saw the mountain and was jaw dropped at the amazing beauty of the Blue Glacier.
We decided to have an early lunch to fuel up for the climb and save weight. Unfortunately Jayme had developed intense pain in her feet and knee over the course of the hike in, which may have been similar to Mike's issue on Reynolds. After much deliberation, Jayme decided to leave us at the moraine and explore the area surrounding the toe of the glacier while we pressed on as a team of 3. We dropped what I estimated was 400 feet and emerged onto the glacier where we noticed a peculiar phenomenon, probably common on larger glaciers that I hadn't noticed before. Rocks were strewn so numerous that it looked like we were still on a moraine but we could hear running water. It seemed like the prequel to a rock-glacier. Mike and Josh were out of water and thirsty so we looked around and found a neat little icy hole where water run-off ran down to oblivion. After following the rocks as far as we could up the more stable ablated ice we roped up and Mike took the lead, avoiding melt-water pools by staying close to the firn line. Crossing the glacier kinda sucked because the snow was very slushy where it transitioned and it was hard to determine where crevasses were. I was very careful where I stepped however Mike wasn't so lucky and soaked his boots. Well, once we managed to cross to the opposite side of the Blue Glacier, the snow was firmer and good for kicking steps. We aimed for a snowy ramp that had footprints leading up Snow-Dome. After a series of crevasses we arrived at some rocks part way up the dome where we refilled water. All I remember sayine over and over was how incredible it was that in early June, the glacier was in late August conditions!
We took a nice break on the rocks and began ascending the steeper snow slopes towards the summit of Snow Dome. Crevasses were minimal as we slowly made it up to the broad ridge. This was truly a sight to see as the Olympics always had this grand allure to me. I loved the scenery looking around within the heart of the range. I also wasn't very familiar with the surrounding peaks since I don't spend much time in the area. Interestingly enough, At the top of the dome we could see a shack with a solar panel and some radio equipment. Don't know if its a weather station or snotel, but some foot prints clearly led towards it. Would have been nice to explore but it was out of the way so we kept moving south, on our way to Crystal Pass. We could now clearly see the various routes, most of which require early season ascents due to the bergshrunds that cross completely across. Even our planned route via Crystal Pass to the east was looking like it was beginning to open up. I couldn't imagine how difficult Olympus was going to be later this year and thankful to be doing it when we did. As we approached Crystal Pass I continued leading right on up over a large crevasse with a snow bridge. Upon reaching Crystal Pass, we were greeted with views of the middle peak, and the upper, more gentle half of the Blue Glacier. We traversed the western edge of the upper Blue glacier, heading around the five finger towers. One more crevasse was crossed before we reached the false summit. The true summit of Mount Olympus, which is the westernmost peak was now right in front of us.
Dropping down the other side had a few feet of some treacherously icy corn snow that luckily turned back into slop near the saddle between the false and true summits. A short but steep ascent on better snow led us to the rock climb. Once we got up this snow-finger, I set a belay, and roped up. The climb was mostly 4th class with a few 5.4 moves thrown in, so I just placed a couple cams in. The short, 70 foot climb was fun and solid, and I was able to lead it with my leather hiking boots without much issue. The hardest part was climbing through the moat which included incredible exposure to both sides and below me. Josh then tied into the middle of the rope and climbed up to me with Mike climbing up last at the other end. At 5pm, we all stood on the summit, 8 hours after we left the tents.
From the top, the Pacific Ocean was easily seen to the west as was the long sinuous ridges covered in dense forest snaking down the mountain. Even more remote and difficult to access is Mount Tom, which also dominated the western skyline. To the east we saw the inner Olympics which were considerably drier but also very rugged looking. The Burke Range was clearly visible to the north along with the High Divide route. Below us we also saw the middle and east peaks of Mount Olympus.
Since it was getting late, we made quick work of the rappel down, and had a fun time literally running down the mountain. All 3 of us while roped together made it back to the lower Blue Glacier in a half hour and if it weren't for photo breaks to capture the ever improving afternoon lighting on Olympus itself, we would have been quicker. We also all glissaded from Snow Dome which added to the fun. We began walking again to traverse back across the icy glacier and shortly before sunset, made it back to the top of the moraine. Josh and Mike decided to wait a bit to try and photograph the sunset, while I started down hoping to catch up with Jayme before it got dark. I ran down most of the trail taking photos as much as I could. I soon reached the tents just as total darkness set in and she was taking a nap, having returned a few hours earlier. Josh and Mike weren't too far behind, since the lack of clouds didn't produce the awesome sunset colors they hoped to see. They ended up starting down shortly after I did. A nice dinner was certainly had in the forest followed by an awesome nights rest.
The next morning we slept in since there was no rush to hike out. We simply enjoyed the downhill hike and made it back to the car tired enough! It was still 15 miles long which is more than enough to still tire you out. The drive back to Lynnwood was loud and obnoxious due to the muffler in my car needing a serious replacement. I never get tired of exploring the Olympic Peninsula!
Starting up the trail from the crowded parking lot at 11am, we had a late start but believed we would be able to make it at least to Glacier Meadows. We quickly passed the herds of tourists and after 5 miles we stopped at an open spot by the Hoh River. We passed many large trees and even spooked a couple black bears. Here we took a snack break, and Mike commented that a small trail leading to a view of Mount Tom had been washed away by a change in course of the Hoh River. We continued an additional 4 miles to a large cabin operated sometimes by the rangers. Here there was a large open meadow and some benches to relax on. Another snack break ensued and we climbed around the cabin trying to find a way in (no such luck haha). From this point on, we crossed a very high bridge where the Hoh River was over 100 feet below, and started going up the steeper trail as it switchbacked above Glacier Creek. Josh and Mike continued on ahead and spotted a great camp site just before Elk Lake just as we finished the final mile and a half. Turns out this was the established 15 mile camp, which ended up being a nice spot sheltered with large trees. A small creek was just a short walk away for water. Once Jayme and I got there Josh informed us that camping at Elk Lake, just a little further up the trail didn't have many good options, so we were happy here. We set up a small campfire and pitched the tents. Josh didn't want to hang his bear bags by himself since he was scared of bears. I told him to get over it lol! About an hour after dark we went to sleep and got well deserved rest.
The next morning, despite earlier plans to wake up at some heinous hour like 3am (I don't do that), we slept in until 9 to be more rested for our day and started out strong. Morning shade kept the hiking cool in the dewy meadows and weepy woods. I was shocked both by the lack of snow as the views started opening up. Arriving at the ladder, we easily dropped down the well built ladder and ascended back to where the trail met the slide. The slope was actually not as steep as I had imagined and probably could have managed without the ladder. Glacier meadows was a beautiful display of wildflowers already blooming, however Olympus still hadn't been seen. Only a glimpse of Snow Dome can be seen on the trail to Glacier Meadows. We were all very low on water (a recurring theme) and passed up the opportunity to refill before the moraine thinking we could use the edge of the glacier. By 11am, we reached the moraine and finally saw the mountain and was jaw dropped at the amazing beauty of the Blue Glacier.
We decided to have an early lunch to fuel up for the climb and save weight. Unfortunately Jayme had developed intense pain in her feet and knee over the course of the hike in, which may have been similar to Mike's issue on Reynolds. After much deliberation, Jayme decided to leave us at the moraine and explore the area surrounding the toe of the glacier while we pressed on as a team of 3. We dropped what I estimated was 400 feet and emerged onto the glacier where we noticed a peculiar phenomenon, probably common on larger glaciers that I hadn't noticed before. Rocks were strewn so numerous that it looked like we were still on a moraine but we could hear running water. It seemed like the prequel to a rock-glacier. Mike and Josh were out of water and thirsty so we looked around and found a neat little icy hole where water run-off ran down to oblivion. After following the rocks as far as we could up the more stable ablated ice we roped up and Mike took the lead, avoiding melt-water pools by staying close to the firn line. Crossing the glacier kinda sucked because the snow was very slushy where it transitioned and it was hard to determine where crevasses were. I was very careful where I stepped however Mike wasn't so lucky and soaked his boots. Well, once we managed to cross to the opposite side of the Blue Glacier, the snow was firmer and good for kicking steps. We aimed for a snowy ramp that had footprints leading up Snow-Dome. After a series of crevasses we arrived at some rocks part way up the dome where we refilled water. All I remember sayine over and over was how incredible it was that in early June, the glacier was in late August conditions!
We took a nice break on the rocks and began ascending the steeper snow slopes towards the summit of Snow Dome. Crevasses were minimal as we slowly made it up to the broad ridge. This was truly a sight to see as the Olympics always had this grand allure to me. I loved the scenery looking around within the heart of the range. I also wasn't very familiar with the surrounding peaks since I don't spend much time in the area. Interestingly enough, At the top of the dome we could see a shack with a solar panel and some radio equipment. Don't know if its a weather station or snotel, but some foot prints clearly led towards it. Would have been nice to explore but it was out of the way so we kept moving south, on our way to Crystal Pass. We could now clearly see the various routes, most of which require early season ascents due to the bergshrunds that cross completely across. Even our planned route via Crystal Pass to the east was looking like it was beginning to open up. I couldn't imagine how difficult Olympus was going to be later this year and thankful to be doing it when we did. As we approached Crystal Pass I continued leading right on up over a large crevasse with a snow bridge. Upon reaching Crystal Pass, we were greeted with views of the middle peak, and the upper, more gentle half of the Blue Glacier. We traversed the western edge of the upper Blue glacier, heading around the five finger towers. One more crevasse was crossed before we reached the false summit. The true summit of Mount Olympus, which is the westernmost peak was now right in front of us.
Dropping down the other side had a few feet of some treacherously icy corn snow that luckily turned back into slop near the saddle between the false and true summits. A short but steep ascent on better snow led us to the rock climb. Once we got up this snow-finger, I set a belay, and roped up. The climb was mostly 4th class with a few 5.4 moves thrown in, so I just placed a couple cams in. The short, 70 foot climb was fun and solid, and I was able to lead it with my leather hiking boots without much issue. The hardest part was climbing through the moat which included incredible exposure to both sides and below me. Josh then tied into the middle of the rope and climbed up to me with Mike climbing up last at the other end. At 5pm, we all stood on the summit, 8 hours after we left the tents.
From the top, the Pacific Ocean was easily seen to the west as was the long sinuous ridges covered in dense forest snaking down the mountain. Even more remote and difficult to access is Mount Tom, which also dominated the western skyline. To the east we saw the inner Olympics which were considerably drier but also very rugged looking. The Burke Range was clearly visible to the north along with the High Divide route. Below us we also saw the middle and east peaks of Mount Olympus.
Since it was getting late, we made quick work of the rappel down, and had a fun time literally running down the mountain. All 3 of us while roped together made it back to the lower Blue Glacier in a half hour and if it weren't for photo breaks to capture the ever improving afternoon lighting on Olympus itself, we would have been quicker. We also all glissaded from Snow Dome which added to the fun. We began walking again to traverse back across the icy glacier and shortly before sunset, made it back to the top of the moraine. Josh and Mike decided to wait a bit to try and photograph the sunset, while I started down hoping to catch up with Jayme before it got dark. I ran down most of the trail taking photos as much as I could. I soon reached the tents just as total darkness set in and she was taking a nap, having returned a few hours earlier. Josh and Mike weren't too far behind, since the lack of clouds didn't produce the awesome sunset colors they hoped to see. They ended up starting down shortly after I did. A nice dinner was certainly had in the forest followed by an awesome nights rest.
The next morning we slept in since there was no rush to hike out. We simply enjoyed the downhill hike and made it back to the car tired enough! It was still 15 miles long which is more than enough to still tire you out. The drive back to Lynnwood was loud and obnoxious due to the muffler in my car needing a serious replacement. I never get tired of exploring the Olympic Peninsula!
View of Olympus from the moraine
Olympus summit panorama view east
Mount Olympus from Snow Dome
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Panorama from Snow Dome
Olympus summit panorama view north
Mount Olympus at sunset
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