LEMKE CLIMBS
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    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
      • Castle Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
      • Trinity Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
      • Deer Mountain
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Madison Range >
        • Koch Peak
        • Sphinx Mountain
        • Beehive Peak
        • South Sheep Mountain
      • Gallatin Range
      • Bridger Range >
        • Sacajawea Peak
        • Saddle Peak
        • Baldy Mountain
        • Ross Peak
      • Montana Absorakas >
        • Arrow Peak
        • Black Mountain
        • Mount Cowen
      • Tobacco Root Mountains >
        • Hollowtop Mountain
        • Belle Point
        • Noble Peak
        • Leggat Mountain
      • Crazy Mountains >
        • Crazy Peak
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
      • Maze District
      • Needles District
      • Maze District
      • White Rim Trail Biking
      • Elephant Butte, Bullwinkle Tower and Lizard Rock
      • South Six Shooter
      • Elephant Canyon
      • Parriott Mesa
      • Ancient Art
      • Castleton Tower North Chimney 5.8
      • Klondike Bluffs
      • Mount Peale & Tukuhnikivatz
    • Robbers Roost Country >
      • Horseshoe Canyon, Goblin Valley
      • Bluejohn Canyon
      • Happy Canyon Narrows
      • Shenanigans, Leprechaun Slots
      • Larry Canyon
      • Merry Piglet Slot
      • Lower Maidenwater Canyon, Turkey Knob
      • Morocco Canyon
      • Monkey Business Slot
      • Hog Canyon Slots
      • Upper Maidenwater Canyon Slots
      • Mount Ellen
      • Buck Canyon
      • Point 4906
      • Alcatraz Canyon
      • Hard Day Harvey Slot
      • Mount Ellsworth
      • Good Day Jim Canyon
      • White Roost Canyon
      • Upper Stair Canyon
      • Dragon Canyon
    • Escalante National Monument >
      • Phipps Canyon and Arch
      • Red Breaks Slot
      • Dry Fork Slots, Coyote Gulch
      • Little Death Hollow/Wolverine Canyons
      • Egypt 3 Slot
      • Egypt 1 Canyon
    • Zion/Bryce >
      • Ataxia Tower Ashtar Command 5.9
      • Mount Kinesava Cowboy Ridge
      • Birch Hollow
      • Aires Butte
      • West Temple
      • Mystery Canyon
      • Crazy Streak
    • Cedar Mesa Region/Valley of the Gods >
      • Eagle Plume Tower Eagle Feather 5.10b
  • California
    • High Sierras, Southern CA Ranges >
      • Telescope Peak, Manly Beacon
      • Tahquitz Rock Whodunit 5.9
      • Tahquitz Rock Long Route 5.9
      • Palisade Traverse
      • White Mountain
    • Yosemite National Park, Central CA
    • Northern CA Cascades >
      • Lava Beds National Monument
      • Mount Shasta
  • Oregon
    • Oregon Volcanoes >
      • Three Fingered Jack
      • Mount Scott
    • Blue Mountains >
      • Twin Peaks
    • Trout Creek Rock Climbing
  • Alaska
    • Eagle Peak and Mount Ewe
    • Jatt Peak and Portage Pass
    • Rainbow Peak
    • Mount Brooks Attempt
    • Arrigetch Peaks Trek
    • Ab Mountain Hike
    • South Suicide Peak
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge Attempt
    • Cantata Peak Attempt
    • East Twin Peak
    • Mount Alice
    • Crow Pass and Hope Point Hikes
    • Indianhouse Mountain Attempt
    • Lynx Peak
    • Harding Icefield Hike
    • Hatcher Pass and Grapefruit Rocks Climbing
    • Mount Sanford
    • Mount Hunter West Ridge
    • Mount Fairweather
  • Nevada
    • Ginger Cracks 5.8
    • Mescalito Dark Shadows 5.8
    • Birdland and Olive Oil
    • Frogland 5.8
    • Johnny Vegas 5.8
    • Schaeffer's Delight & Triassic Sands
    • Solar Slab - 5.6
  • British Columbia
    • Mount Matier
    • Taiya Peak
    • Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge
    • Mount Sabine Easy Honey 5.10b
    • Mount Sir Donald NW Ridge Attempt
    • Black Tusk
    • Slesse Mountain NE Buttress
    • Warden Peak
    • Triple Peak
    • Gimli Peak
    • Mount Waddington
  • Alberta
    • Mist Ridge Hike
    • Mount Temple Attempt
    • East Wendell Peak
    • Loder Peak
    • Tower Mountain Attempt
    • The Rimwall
    • Mount Yamnuska Directissima 5.9
    • Mount Lawrence Grassi
    • Mount Lorette
    • Roche A Perdrix
    • Mount Edith Cavell East Ridge 5.3
    • Mount Louis Kain Route
    • Eiffel Peak
    • Mount Alberta
    • Canadian Rockies Ice Climbing
  • Other States
    • Arizona >
      • Grand Canyon Bright Angel Trail
      • Beanfest at Cochise Stronghold
      • Baboquivari Peak
      • Humphreys Peak
    • New Mexico >
      • Philmont Trek August 2008
    • Yukon >
      • Canyon Peak
  • International
    • Mexico & Central America >
      • Mexico - Pico de Orizaba, Izta
      • Guatemala Volcanoes
    • South America >
      • Chile >
        • An Introduction to Patagonia
        • Exploring Pucon and Lanin Volcano
        • Cerro Puntado & Palo
        • Cerro Colorado
        • Cerro Puno & Agudo
        • Cerro Trinidad Attempt
        • Volcan Quetrupillan
        • Cerro Placas
        • Volcan Puyehue
        • Cerro Conico
        • Cerro Barros Arana
        • Cerro Cordillerano
        • Ojos del Salado
      • Argentina >
        • Nahuel Huapi National Park & The Frey
        • Cerro Helio Azul & Tronador Attempt
        • Aguja Guillaumet Amy Couloir
        • Nevado de Acay
        • Chiaro de Luna
      • Peru >
        • Cordillera Blanca - Tocllaraju and Urus
        • Cordillera Blanca - Ishinca Peak and Artesonraju
        • Cordillera Blanca - Quitaraju & Alpamayo
        • Exploring Southern Peru
      • Bolivia >
        • Pequeno Alpamayo
        • Huayna Potosi
        • Illimani
    • Oceania >
      • Exploring New Zealand's South Island
      • Puncak Jaya
      • Mount McPherson and Talbot
      • Single Cone
      • Mount Cook
      • Mount Aspiring
      • Manakau
      • Mount Wilhelm
    • Central Asia >
      • Kyrgyzstan 2021
    • Europe >
      • Iceland & Faroe >
        • Snaefellsjokull
        • Kaldbakur
        • Slaettaratindur
  • Sorted by Year
    • 2008 Trip Reports
    • 2009 Trip Reports
    • 2010 Trip Reports
    • 2011 Trip Reports
    • 2012 Trip Reports
    • 2013 Trip Reports
    • 2014 Trip Reports
    • 2015 Trip Reports
    • 2016 Trip Reports
    • 2017 Trip Reports
    • 2018 Trip Reports
    • 2019 Trip Reports
    • 2020 Trip Reports
    • 2021 Trip Reports
    • 2022 Trip Reports
    • 2023 Trip Reports
  • Vanlife
    • Conversion Journal >
      • Floor Installation
      • Folding Bed
      • Coffee Table
      • Thinsulate Installation
      • The Couch
      • The Wardrobe
      • Bookshelf
      • Water System
      • Electrical System
      • The Pantry
      • Refrigerator
      • Tire Upgrade
      • Heating System
      • Composting Toilet
  • About
    • Whats New
    • 2019 Goals/Wishlist
    • Contact
  • Washington
    • North Cascades >
      • Sahale Peak, Boston Peak
      • Eldorado Peak, Klawatti Peak
      • Black Peak
      • Forbidden Peak West Ridge
      • Primus Peak Attempt
      • Big Snagtooth
      • Liberty Bell Beckey Route
      • Burgundy Spire North Face 5.8
      • Ragged Ridge - Katsuk, Kimtah and Cosho Peaks
      • Colfax Peak
      • South Early Winters Spire via SW Buttress
      • Chilliwack Mini-Slam
      • Mesahchie Peak
      • Inspiration Traverse
      • Mount Shuksan Ski
      • Full Pickets Traverse
      • Mount Goode NE Buttress & Storm King
      • Mount Baker North Ridge WI3
      • Snowfield Peak
      • Lincoln Peak
      • Silver Star Mountain
      • Mount Buckner & Horseshoe Peak
      • Azurite Peak
      • Tower Mountain & Golden Horn
      • Mount Logan
      • Custer Ridge & Easy Mox
      • Mazama Dome
      • Sherman Peak
      • Mount Ballard
      • Southern Pickets Traverse
      • Corteo Peak
      • Whatcom Peak
      • Castle Peak
    • Glacier Peak Wilderness >
      • Buck Creek Pass, Cloudy Peak, Spider Gap
      • Dome Peak, Spire Point
      • Mt. Maude and Seven Fingered Jack
      • Mount Formidable NE Face 5.6 Second Ascent
      • Dumbell and Greenwood Mountains
      • Glacier Peak Wilderness Mountain Massacre
      • Clark and Luahna Peaks
      • Sinister Peak
      • Chiwawa Mountain
      • Tupshin & Devore Peaks
      • Buck & Fortress Mountains
      • Glacier Peak
      • Snowking Mountain
    • Olympic Peninsula >
      • Buckhorn Mountain
      • Flapjack Lakes Hike
      • Grey Wolf Peak, High Divide Trail
      • Mount Ellinor
      • Mount Constance West Arete
      • Mount Olympus
    • Alpine Lakes Wilderness >
      • Chikamin Peak
      • PCT - Snoqualmie to Pete Lake
      • Necklace and Tank Lakes
      • Enchantments Day Hike
      • Granite Mountain (Snoqualmie)
      • Colchuck Peak
      • Cannon, Enchantment and Stuart
      • Ingalls Peaks
      • McClellan Peak
      • Dragontail Peak
      • Web Mountain
      • Mount Index Attempt
      • Snow Creek Wall Orbit 5.8+
      • The Tooth South Face
      • Eightmile Mountain
      • Argonaut Peak NE Couloir
      • Little Annapurna South Face 5.5
      • Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.9
      • Cashmere Mountain
      • Sherpa Peak North Ridge 5.8
      • Chair Peak NE Ridge
      • Lichtenburg Mountain
      • Mount Index
      • McClellan Butte
      • Chimney Rock
      • Alpine Lakes High Route
    • Pasayten Wilderness >
      • The Craggies
      • Tiffany Mountain
      • Pasayten Mini-Slam
      • Remmel Group
      • Jack Mountain
      • Robinson Mountain
      • Monument Peak Group
    • Mountain Loop Highway >
      • Vesper Peak
      • Mount Dickerman
      • Sloan Peak West Face 5.8
      • Mount Forgotten
      • Whitehorse Mountain
      • Gothic Peak
    • Lake Chelan Sawtooth Wilderness >
      • Star, Courtney, and Grey Peaks
      • Hoodoo Peak and Raven Ridge
      • Abernathy Peak
      • Mount Bigelow
      • Reynolds Peak
      • Oval Peak
      • Gardner Peaks
      • Chelan Sawtooth Trio
    • Southern WA >
      • Mount Adams
      • Mount Rainier - Emmons Route
      • Mount Saint Helens
      • Goat Peak
      • Lane Peak, Plummer Peak (Tatoosh)
      • The Unicorn (Tatoosh)
      • Little Tahoma
      • Liberty Cap
    • WA Rock and Ice Cragging >
      • Index Town Walls
      • Vantage
      • Mount Erie
      • Exit 38
      • Leavenworth
  • Colorado
    • San Juan Mountains >
      • Mount Sneffels Lavender Snow Climb
      • Uncompahgre, Matterhorn Peaks
      • Redcloud, Sunshine Peaks
      • San Luis Peak
      • Vermilion, Fuller Peaks
      • Stewart Peak, Baldy Alto
      • Jones, Niagara, American Peaks
      • Wetterhorn Peak, Handies Peak
      • Wilson Group
      • Arrow Peak
      • Mount Sneffels SW Ridge
      • Jagged Mountain, Chicago Basin
      • Teakettle Mountain
      • Dallas Peak
      • Vestal Peak Wham Ridge, Greystone Peak
      • Organ Mountain
      • Phoenix Peak
      • Half Peak
      • Point 13832 Group
      • Golden Horn
      • Mount Sneffels Snake Couloir
      • Pigeon, Turret Peaks
      • Trinity Peaks
    • Elk Mountains >
      • Four Pass Loop
      • Castle, Conundrum Peaks
      • Snowmass Mountain
      • Cathedral Peak
      • South Maroon Peak
      • The Pyramids
      • North Maroon Peak, Sleeping Sexton
      • Capitol Peak, Mount Daly
      • Malemute Peak
      • Hagerman Peak
    • Sangre de Cristo Mountains >
      • Blanca Peak, Ellingwood Point
      • Challenger Point
      • Mount Adams
      • Spread Eagle Peak
      • Humboldt, Obstruction, Columbia Peaks
      • Mount Lindsey, Huerfano Peak
      • Little Bear Peak
      • Crestone Needle Ellingwood Arete
      • California Peak
      • Crestone Peak North Buttress
      • Operation Dark Snake
      • Kit Carson Mountain
    • Sawatch Mountains >
      • Iowa Peak
      • Point 13,618 - Hunky Dory Lake
      • Gold Dust Peak, Notch Mountain
      • Mount Jackson
      • Mount Belford
      • Shavano, Tabeguache Peaks
      • Mount Antero, Cronin Peak
      • Twining Peak
      • Mount Massive
      • Casco Peak
      • Mount Huron
      • Mount Elbert
      • Mount Oxford
      • Mount Hope
      • Mount Yale
      • Lackawanna Peak
      • Mount Columbia
      • La Plata Peak
      • Rinker and Twin Peaks
      • Bull Hill, Mount Princeton
      • Missouri Mountain
      • Mount Oklahoma
      • French Mountain
      • Mount Ouray
      • Grizzly A, Garfield Peaks
      • Mount Harvard
      • The Three Apostles
      • Emerald Peak
      • Holy Cross
      • Mount Aetna
      • Deer Mountain
    • Greater Park Range >
      • Kneeknocker Pass, Piney Lake
      • Drift Peak
      • Sherman Peak, Dyer Peak
      • Gore Range Traverse
      • Quandary Peak
      • Pacific, Atlantic Peaks
      • Clark Peak
      • Crystal Peak, Peak 10
      • Fletcher Mountain
      • The DeCaLiBron
      • Loveland Mountain
      • The Mosquito Traverse
      • Mount Arkansas
      • Clinton Group
      • Eagles Nest, Peak C
      • North Star Mountain
      • Peak X
      • Wheeler Mountain
    • Front Range >
      • Mount Evans, Spalding
      • Mount Bierstadt
      • Mount Parnassus, Bard Peak
      • Cupid, Sniktau, Grizzly D Peaks
      • James Peak
      • Mount Silverheels
      • Grays and Torreys Peaks
      • Mount Edwards
      • Mount Flora, Longs Peak
      • Square Top Mountain
      • Petit Grepon South Face 5.8
      • Mount Meeker Dreamweaver Couloir
      • Santa Fe Peak
      • The Citadel & Pettingell
    • Colorado Ice Climbing >
      • Lincoln Ice Falls
      • Ouray Ice Park
      • Avocado Gully and The Drool
      • Hidden Falls
    • Colorado Rock Climbing >
      • Eldorado Canyon
      • The Flatirons
      • North Table Mountain
      • Colorado National Monument >
        • Independence Monument
  • Wyoming
    • Wind River Mountains >
      • Gone With the Winds
      • Union Peak - Solar Eclipse
      • Wind River Peak
      • Wind River Slam
    • Teton Range >
      • Grand Teton Owen Spalding 5.4
      • Mount Owen Attempt
    • Wyoming Absarokas and Gros Ventre Range >
      • Jackson Peak
      • Francs Peak
    • Yellowstone National Park >
      • Top Notch Peak
    • Bighorn Range and Great Divide Basin >
      • Boars Tusk
      • Loaf Mountain
      • Cloud Peak
      • Black Tooth Mountain
    • Devils Tower
    • Cody Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Montana
    • Beartooth Mountains >
      • Whitetail Peak Group
      • Beartooth Mountain
      • Spirit Mountain Group
      • Mount Peal
      • Granite Peak Group
      • Castle Rock Group
      • Castle Mountain NE Couloir
      • Mount Inabnit and Sylvan Peak
      • Mount Hague South Slopes
      • Mount Villard and The Granite Peaks Traverse - 5.4
      • Spirit Mountain NE Ridge - 5.4
      • California Ice WI 4
      • The Ramp 5.8
      • Linea Alba 5.10d
      • Iceberg Peak
      • Metcalf Mountain North Rib 5.8
      • Villard Spires HP West Ramp
      • Cairn Mountain
      • Snowbank Mountain
      • Mount Wood Group
      • Bears Tooth
      • Glacier Peak Catch-a-Sunrise FA
    • Southwest Montana Ranges >
      • Madison Range >
        • Koch Peak
        • Sphinx Mountain
        • Beehive Peak
        • South Sheep Mountain
      • Gallatin Range
      • Bridger Range >
        • Sacajawea Peak
        • Saddle Peak
        • Baldy Mountain
        • Ross Peak
      • Montana Absorakas >
        • Arrow Peak
        • Black Mountain
        • Mount Cowen
      • Tobacco Root Mountains >
        • Hollowtop Mountain
        • Belle Point
        • Noble Peak
        • Leggat Mountain
      • Crazy Mountains >
        • Crazy Peak
    • Glacier National Park >
      • A Taste of Glacier National Park
      • Divide Mountain
    • MT Rock and Ice Climbing
  • Utah
    • Uinta Mountains >
      • Kings-Emmons Ridge Run
      • Hayden Peak
      • Iron Hayden Wall Rock Climbing
    • Wasatch Range >
      • The Sundial Eleventh Hour 5.8
      • Mount Timpanogos
    • San Rafael Swell >
      • Ramp, Cistern Canyons
      • Salt Wash, Black Mountain, Moroni Slopes
      • Ding, Dang Canyons
      • Little Wild Horse, Bell Canyons
      • Quandary Canyon
      • San Rafael Knob
      • Miners Hollow (Knotted Rope Canyon)
      • Temple Mountain
      • Chimney Rock
      • Bottleneck Mesa
      • Window Blind Peak
      • Lower Baptist Draw & Upper Chute Canyon
    • Capitol Reef National Park >
      • Cathedral Valley Tour
      • Sheets Gulch
      • Halls Creek Narrows
      • Brimhall Canyon and Strike Valley Overlook
      • George Benchmark
    • Moab Area, Canyonlands, Arches >
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LEMKE CLIMBS

Eightmile Mountain

Eightmile Mountain - 7996' - SW Slopes Class 2
May 2013

My Eightmile Mountain Page on SP

Overview

Eightmile Mountain is a lonely peak located in the Stuart Range about four miles north of Mount Stuart. This peak is interesting in the fact it has a large broad summit atypical of all other Stuart Rage Peaks like Dragontail, Colchuck and Cannon to name a few. The summit was about as large as a football field and offers great panoramic views of the Entire Stuart Range, much of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and even most of the Glacier Peak Wilderness. These views don't come without a price however as the peak doesn't offer a friendly ascent. No matter which way you look at it Eightmile Mountain will require lots of bushwhacking, talus hopping and some scrambling. Plan for the majority of a day to climb this one, or make it a winter or spring ski trip since you will avoid much of the bush and have a great run down its east face couloirs.

With a stout elevation of 7,996 feet and 976 feet of clean prominence, it is one of the highest 200 in Washington and attempts to rival that of the main Stuart Range crest however it falls short and hides in the background. Much fewer ascents are made of this peak since it is less known and known to have a grungy approach. It is however a prominent peak offering grand vistas on the entire area and worth the ascent if for nothing else. It is recommended someone ascend this peak on a clear day.

Eightmile Lake
Eightmile Mountain at center-right from Eightmile Lake

Getting There

All feasible routes for this peak start at the Eightmile Creek trailhead off the Eightmile Road. Note that a forest service parking pass is required to park here however you can also pull off to the side of the road just before the "Entering Fee Area" sign about a tenth of a mile before the actual trailhead if you don't have the pass. From Leavenworth, WA turn south onto the Icicle Creek Road which is located at the west end of town on US Highway 2. There is a gas station at this intersection and a large sign for the Icicle Creek Road. Follow this paved road for 4.2 miles where you will pass the Snow Creek trailhead (used for theSnow Creek Wall and Snow Lakes). Beyond this point the road is not plowed in winter and much less maintained. Continue an additional 4.2 miles (8.4 total from Leavenworth) and turn left onto NF-7601 (Eightmile Road). Pass the Bridge Creek Campground and cross the bridge over Icicle Creek and continue up this well maintained but steep gravel road for 3 miles to the signed Eightmile trailhead at 3,300 feet elevation. This road climbs nearly 1,300 feet from the Icicle Creek Road so use caution when driving down. 

The Eightmile Road is gated closed at the Bridge Creek Campground upon the first major snowfall usually in late October and does not open again until it completely thaws out usually in the middle of May. An outing up any of the peaks accessed from this road adds an additional 6-8 miles round-trip when the road is closed. From the trailhead where there is room for 10-15 cars and a vault toilet facility, start up the Eightmile Creek Trail where the approach begins. In recent years, especially in the summer of 2012, the entire Eightmile Creek Valley burned down to the ground leaving behind a huge mess. In fact, much of the summer season in 2012 the Eightmile and Lake Caroline zones were closed and all of Cashmere Mountain was off limits due to the long term fires that plagued the area. Even as late as mid-November 2012 after weeks of rain there was still smoke pluming from the valley and the trail was virtually impossible to find under layers of downed trees and a think cover of wet ash. The landscape has virtually been destroyed and looked like the moon. Now, in the spring of 2013, crews have amazingly cleared much of the deadfall that was covering the trail and re-established it making the four mile hike to Eightmile Lake simple and enjoyable once again, however the scenery has been changed dramatically and will take years to recover. It is asked everyone be very careful when visiting this area and avoid fires of any kind.

From the trailhead, begin hiking up the trail which follows along the right side of the creek the whole time. The trail it the steepest in the first half-mile and shortly after meets with an old road and crosses a stream on a double log bridge. Past this bridge the trail winds through the valley gently gaining elevation. After about 3.25 miles you will pass Little Eightmile Lake where the signed junction with the Lake Caroline/Windy Pass trail heads to the right and up the steep slopes. Do not take this junction but stay straight and continue climbing an additional 0.75 mile to the end of the trail at Eightmile Lake.

Eightmile Creek burn
The Eightmile Lake trail heavily affected by the summer 2012 fires
Still skoming
Some logs still smoking well into the fall after the summer 2012 fires

 

Route Options

South Face - Class 2+

This has been regarded as the standard route up the mountain but by no means the one I recommend. The bushwhacking on this route is terrible and the entire way up is a grungy mess. Nevertheless, if this suits you, by all means give it a go! Hike 1 mile around the north side of Eightmile Lake on a nice boot path passing by three designated camp spots. Cross over a sizable creek coming in from the north right as you reach the west end of the lake and continue up the valley to the west. Almost instantly when you leave the lake-shore the valley bottom becomes a maze of pick-up-sticks with millions of down trees making for slow going. Luckily however there isn't much brush but that will change. Go 0.4 mile up the valley until the slope on the right (north) opens and reveals a huge avalanche swath at 4,800 feet. Turn right and begin ascending this slope in a northwest direction. Be aware though that the next 1,000 feet of elevation gain will test your bushwhacking skills and you may just go insane. The only word of wisdom I can give is to stay as close to the forest line as possible! Do not venture too far into the middle of the avalanche swath and certainly do not get too close to one of the creeks draining down this slope. At 5,800 feet the brush relents and you should veer more westward towards a small tarn at 6,420 feet. Do not go to the tarn directly but bypass it just to the east and continue northward over talus and easy rock slabs to 7,500 feet in elevation. Here skirt below the cliffs just to the east and hit the ridge crest at about 7,700 feet. Once on the ridge it is a short 0.2 mile Class 2+ scramble on blocky terrain northeast along the ridge to the summit. You will have to walk a short ways on the summit plateau to reach the highest point. When snow covered the slopes above the small tarn make for a great mellow (about 30-35 degrees) snow climb.

 

Slide alder garbage
Slide alder on the lower avalanche swath
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Talus above the small tarn...the ridge can be seen! - By Bloated Chipmunk
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Looking down to Eightmile Lake - By Bloated Chipmunk

 

Eightmile Creek forest
Hiking through the "pick-up-stick" forest along Eightmile Creek
Hiking up the talus
Finally above the brush!

 

East Face - Class 2+

This is the route I recommend since it has much less bushwhacking and makes for a great snow climb/glissade. From the boot path heading around the north side of Eightmile Lake, begin heading north up the slopes right at the west end of the lake where a sizable stream drains into the lake. This is the same stream you would cross over if continuing up the main valley for doing the south face route. For this route, do not cross this stream but instead ascend through a scarcely forested burn area along the east side of this stream. There are a few other smaller streams in the area but these are easily hiked around. After 800 feet of ascending, the slope will ease considerably and you will enter a broad flat valley with nice meadows (or mud in early season) at 5,700 feet elevation. Continue walking up this valley just east of the stream until you reach orange colored talus. Note there is a rock contact between the orange colored peridotite that makes up the area around Cashmere and Eightmile Lake and the Stuart Range granite right through this valley and the rock color changes dramatically. Once on the peridotite talus, begin hiking up for about 10 minutes until you pass by the cliffs just to the southwest. At the head of the valley around 5,800 feet you will veer left and ascend the east facing slopes which are either snow or talus. Aim for one of the gullies leading up to the southeast ridge coming down Eightmile Mountain. The leftward gullies are shorter and a little less steep while the big one to the right is the steepest. Once you reach the ridge, veer right and walk northwest for about 200 feet or less to the summit.

 

Eightmile Mountain in the clouds
Looking up the east face of Eightmile Mountain from the flat valley at 5,700 feet. Notice all the talus
Descending to the valley below the east face
Looking back to the flat valley
Eightmile Mountain east face
Looking up the east face...notice the different gullies to choose from on the upper face

 

Jack Ridge-Eightmile Mountain Direct Traverse - Class 4

This traverse is done if you are wanting to climb both Eightmile Mountain and Jack Ridge. There are other routes up Jack Ridge with the east slopes being the primary one from the same approach as Eightmile Mountain however you could traverse this route back and forth to tag both summits. I will describe the route from Jack Ridge to Eightmile Mountain. From the summit of Jack Ridge, descend down the east slopes aiming directly for the low 7,000 foot saddle to the east. This part of the route is easy Class 2 rock hopping. Ascend 750 feet east up easy Class 2 terrain to a small notch between the two summits of Point 7,793 (Eightjack Peak). The east peak is slightly higher and is capped with a large boulder you can climb up on where you will find the best views of the area. Since Eightmile Mountain has such a large summit the views are obstructed which makes Eightjack Peak a worthy objective even if it only has about 200 feet of prominence. 

So, here comes the tricky part. From the higher east peak, descend northeast a few feet and downclimb an 8 foot crack which cuts through a smooth slab (Class 4). Continue down the next slab by mantling down 5 feet to a good rock where you can then jump off to a large ledge (Class 3). Scramble down a gully towards the southeast (Class 4) to reach easier terrain and finish the traverse to the wide saddle on Class 2-3 rock. From the wide saddle northeast of Eightjack Peak, ascend easily for 400 feet to the summit of Eightmile Mountain.

 

Jack Ridge
The traverse to Jack Ridge from Eightjack Mountain
Downclimbing a short Class 4 step
The Class 4 crack down off Point 7,793 (Eightjack Peak) on the traverse to Eightmile Mountain
Looking back to Point 7,793
Looking at the Class 4 descent off Eightjack Peak

 

Point 7,793 and Jack Ridge from Eightmile
Jack Ridge and Eightjack Peak (Point 7,793) from Eightmile Mountain
Traversing to Eightmile Mountain
The final 400 foot ascent to Eightmile Mountain

 

Map

Eightmile Peak topo map
ORANGE: Approach Trail - Class 1        PURPLE: East Face - Class 2+        RED: South Face - Class 2+                                                                         LIGHT BLUE: Point 7,793 Southeast Ridge - Class 3     DARK BLUE: Eightmile Mountain / Jack Ridge Traverse - Class 4


When to Climb

Late Spring/Eary Summer

This is the best time to climb Eightmile Peak especially right after the road to the trailhead opens up sometime in May. This time of year you you can take advantage of the snow that covers much of the tedious talus slopes higher up and the amount of time you spend bushwhacking can be mitigated. You can also drive to the trailhead and easily hike the trail to the lake. A moderate to long day would be required. 

Late Summer/Early Fall

A late summer ascent of this peak can be done and isn't a complete suffer-fest. The temperatures will be much hotter and buggier with more bushwhacking to deal with but the real killer will be that the talus slopes all around the mountain will be open and both the climb and descent will be more tedious and take much longer. Plan for a very long day if planning to climb it during this time of year.

Late Fall/Early Winter

HA! Forget about it!!

Late Winter/Early Spring

Although the road is closed at this time this is probably when the peak receives the most visitors. Skiers can find heaven on the east face slopes which offer great lines. Just be sure you go when the conditions are favorable and have knowledge about avalanches and how to avoid getting caught. Since the Stuart Range is east of the Cascade crest, fine weather days can be had in winter. Add 6 miles round-trip to the climb if climbing it in early spring and 14 miles round trip if climbing it in mid-late winter (since the Icicle Creek Road isn't plowed all the way to Bridge Creek).

 

Eightmile Mountain
Eightmile Mountain in summer
Eightmile Mountain from Point 7,793
Eightmile Mountain in spring
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Eightmile Mountain in fall

 

Summit Views

Point 7,793 Summit view
Stuart Range from Point 7,793

 

Dragontail and Colchuck
Dragontail and Colchuck Peaks from Eightmile Mountain

 

Cashmere from Eightmile
Cashmere Mountain from Eightmile Mountain

 

Camping/Red Tape

Camping is allowed at Eightmile Lake away from the east edge which is designated as a day use area. A way trail follows around the north shore of the lake and passes by 3 designated sites each having a working privy. A permit is required to camp overnight which is organized through the Enchantments lottery system however the Eightmile/Lake Caroline zone rarely fills up and you can usually get a permit at the Leavenworth Ranger station the day you start your trip. Typically, only the Enchantment Core zone is impossible to get a permit. See the map below for the zone boundaries. For questions about permits, current conditions or logistics information call the Leavenworth rangers. You can also camp at the established Bridge Creek Campground for a $16 fee which is located right at the intersection between the Icicle Creek and Eightmile roads. There is also a nice group site here with room for 50+ people which can be reserved for $85.

600 Sherbourne St

Leavenworth, WA 98826

(509) 548-6977

 

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Map of the permit zones in the Enchantments area. Eightmile/Caroline zone is typically the least visited.

 

External Links

Down to Eightmile Lake
Looking down at Eightmile Lake

Weather Forecast

Great late season Trip Report on NWHikers

Epic on Eightmile Mountain

Eightmile Mountain on Lists of John

Ski Eightmile Mountain Information

Leavenworth Information

Wenatchee National Forest

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