sundial peak - 10,320' - The eleventh hour class 5.8
august 2014
After soloing up Hayden Peak, I met up with a German climber who was visiting the US in Salt Lake City and since I had wanted to climb The Sundial, we went to the Big Cottonwood Canyon road to the Lake Blanche trailhead. We started up the trail and made it very quickly up to the lake, which was nothing more than a small man made pond. It was probably damned since the canyon is one of the main watersheds for the SLC metro area. It only took us an hour to gain the 2,700 feet to the lake. We then hiked around the lake and bushwhacked straight up through the bushes towards the base of the north side of The Sundial. We consulted the topo and located the start of the route and racked up. I led the first long pitch which was nothing more than some low 5th class climbing. I climbed a full 60 meters to a large ledge and belayed my partner up. We then walked 50 feet right to the northwest arete where the second pitch began.
He led the second pitch which was supposed to be the crux. It started up and easy third class chimney then finished on a short, thin slab with thin holds along the wall to the right. I followed and started up the wildly exposed and fun third pitch. Utilizing a series of finger cracks and thin face holds, I slowly made my way up to the shale covered ledge where I set my own anchor. From here, it was only 15 more feet of easy climbing to the end of the route. We were able to make two double rope rappels to descend the route down the east side of the formation, then ran down the loose talus to our stashed gear. We hiked out quickly back to the car then had a nice meal at Cafe Rio and decided where to go for the next day.
He led the second pitch which was supposed to be the crux. It started up and easy third class chimney then finished on a short, thin slab with thin holds along the wall to the right. I followed and started up the wildly exposed and fun third pitch. Utilizing a series of finger cracks and thin face holds, I slowly made my way up to the shale covered ledge where I set my own anchor. From here, it was only 15 more feet of easy climbing to the end of the route. We were able to make two double rope rappels to descend the route down the east side of the formation, then ran down the loose talus to our stashed gear. We hiked out quickly back to the car then had a nice meal at Cafe Rio and decided where to go for the next day.
First look at the Sundial
Looking up Pitch 2 of The Sundial
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Lake Blanche
On the summit ridge of The Sundial
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Looking up from the base of The Sundial
Last look at The Sundial with our route along the sun/shade border
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